SKIN CARE


DAPI CROSSLINKED PURE PEPTIDE


91


Figure 2: In situ crosslinking assay on human skin cryosections observed by fluorescence microscopy


on SC permeability was then explored. There are three possible pathways for SC penetration of active compounds: transfollicular penetration through the hair follicle, transcellular penetration which gathers intracellular penetration through the corneocytes and intercellular penetration across the lipid cement. Transfollicular penetration makes a small


contribution to epidermal permeation due to low number of hair follicles on the skin, while the transcellular penetration is the main transepidermal pathway and allows a straight path through the SC into the epidermis and dermis.5 Evaluating the curative and preventive


effects on skin barrier function, pure peptide treatment was tested on delipidized human skin explants. A total of 30 human skin explants were obtained from a patient undergoing plastic surgery (Caucasian woman, 33 years old, phototype III). Explants, treated at Day 0 or Day 1,


underwent a three-hour delipidization process Preventive action


Delipidization process


Day 0


Pure peptide or placebo


Day 1 marker application Fluorescent Read out Day 2


Delipidization process


Day 0 Day 1


Pure peptide or placebo


marker application Fluorescent


with an ether/acetone mixture and were treated with pure peptide (1 ppm) or a placebo (water). Following treatment, yellow lucifer dye (1mM) served as a fluorescent marker for 24 hours. For preventive action, pure peptide


treatment reduces lucifer yellow dye penetration by 44% compared to the placebo. In the curative context, the penetration decrease is 38%, showcasing the Hexapeptide-9 peptide’s role in decreasing SC permeability and reinforcing skin barrier function (Figure 3).


Innovative and inclusive clinical studies powered by AI The strengthening effect of the skin barrier function by the Hexapeptide-9 peptide is supported by nine clinical studies and tested on inclusive panels (young and older multi-ethnic females and males) with sensitive skins. These studies demonstrate a notable decrease in the visibility of ageing signs like wrinkles and fine lines, a reduction in skin roughness, and an increase in skin tonicity.


Clinical studies on skin barrier function The Hexapeptide-9 peptide’s impact on skin penetration was confirmed in vivo with a group of 24 multi-ethnic male and female volunteers (30 to 55 years old) with sensitive skin. They applied a cream containing 1% Hexapeptide-9 peptide once daily versus a placebo for seven days under normal usage conditions. Following this, methyl nicotinate (a


vasoactive molecule) was applied, and its penetration onset time and biological effect at 8 hours (vasodilation) were quantified using laser doppler flowmetry. In comparison to untreated conditions, the


Hexapeptide-9 peptide cream application led to a significant increase in vasodilation onset time (+23%) and a significant decrease in maximal skin penetration (-18%). These results indicate that the Hexapeptide-9 peptide reduces the ability of methyl nicotinate to penetrate the SC, illustrating an enhanced skin barrier function (Figure 4). Additional in vivo studies on multi-


Curative action Read out Day 2


Figure 3: Ex vivo evaluation of dye penetration on delipidized human skin explants (curative and preventive effects on skin barrier function) conducted under fluorescent light


www.personalcaremagazine.com April 2024 PERSONAL CARE


NON-ACTIVATED TGM


ACTIVATED TGM


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