86 ANTI-AGEING
Crow's feet number
25 20 15 10 5 0
** 9% 17%
Surface profile crow's feet area
123 82 41 0
8%
-41 -82
-123
Bakuchiol Control Cream
Bakuchiol Phospholipid Cream
D0 D56 (µm)
Figure 4: The ‘Bakuchiol Phospholipid Cream’ improved skin topography. Crow’s feet wrinkles were monitored with the AEVA-HE V4 system. Representative images show the surface profile of the facial half-side treated with the ‘Bakuchiol Phospholipid Cream’. Data is presented as percent changes D0-D56. N = 22; Mean + SEM. Student’s t-test D0 versus D56; ** = p < 0.01
cream is more effective, most consumers see better results with the ‘Bakuchiol Phospholipid Cream’ (Figure 5).
Conclusion Consumers see retinol as one of the most powerful active ingredients to treat skin blemishes and signs of ageing. Yet they also know that retinol may cause skin incompatibilities. Natural alternatives to retinol are seen as effective and better tolerated ingredients – they are preferred over retinol. Consumer preference is even more pronounced when the natural active ingredient is combined with a dermal penetration enhancer. BakuLipid® addresses these consumer
preferences and expectations by combining bakuchiol – a plant-derived retinol alternative – with a dermal penetration enhancer based on phospholipids for higher efficacy. At the same time, unsaturated phospholipids provide extra skin care benefits. Therefore, BakuLipid®
is an upgraded version of bakuchiol. It is the perfect ingredient for cosmetic anti-ageing concepts that intend to replace retinol with bakuchiol and expect superior activity.
the Management of Acne-affected Skin. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 2011, Vol. 126, No. 7/ July
PC
References 1. Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology. 2019; XXXVI (4): 392–397
2. Milosheska D, Roskar R. Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations. Advances in Therapy. 2022, 39: 5351–5375
3. Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2014, 36: 221–230
4. Chaudhuri RK, Marchio F. Bakuchiol in
5. Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR, Notay M, Trivedi M, Burney W, Vaughn AR, Nguyen M, Reiter P, Bosanac S, Yan H. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology. 2019, 180 (2): 289–296
6. van Hoogevest P, Fahr A. Phospholipids in Cosmetic Carriers 2019, In: Cornier, J., Keck, C., Van de Voorde, M. (eds) Nanocosmetics. Springer, Cham.
https://doi.org/10.1007/978- 3-030-16573-4_6
7. Vanić Ž. Phospholipid Vesicles for Enhanced Drug Delivery in Dermatology. Journal of Drug Discovery. Development and Delivery, 2015, 2(1): 1010
8. Acne vulgaris: Establishing effectiveness of drugs intended for treatment - Guidance for industry available from
https://www.fda.gov/ media/71152/download.
Self-assessment: Consumer rating comparing product efficacy Comparing both sides of your face, how would you rate your skin's smoothness? Comparing both sides of your face, how would you rate your skin's evenness? Comparing both sides of your face, how would you rate the visibility of fine lines? 32%
41% 36%
Bakuchiol Control Cream side better
68%
59% 64%
Bakuchiol Phospholipid Cream side better
Figure 5: Consumers preferred the ‘Bakuchiol Phospholipid Cream’ as anti-ageing treatment. 22 women applied a ‘Bakuchiol Phospholipid Cream’ to one hemi-face and a ‘Bakuchiol Control Cream’ to the other side. After 56 days of treatment, volunteers evaluated both hemifaces for signs of ageing and decided which side they prefer (forced decision). Data is presented as percentage of users that preferred either side
PERSONAL CARE April 2024
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