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ANTI-ACNE


have begun to emerge showing a good relevance and pertinency. The challenge with trying to grow skin commensals or potentially other probiotics on such in vitro tissue models is that they can overwhelm the tissue growth and thus simply become a contaminant in the model. However, recently Gruber et al reported


on the topical treatment of 3D RHE models with a probiotic treatment containing viable Lactobacillus plantarum cultures that demonstrated an ability to upregulate elastin in these tissue models.14 In addition, Meloni et al have described an in


vitro testing model in which the skin commensal microbes, C. acnes and Malassesia restricta are grown on RHE. The model assayed the influence of skin commensals to influence skin barrier structure, cellular proliferation and differentiation and expression of anti-microbial defences.15 In the present work, the model described


by Meloni et al was modified to examine the influence of C. acnes to modulate skin inflammatory responses including effects on TNF-a and Caspase-1. By demonstrating that the topical


application of C. acnes could upregulate these two critical skin inflammatory markers associated with inflammatory acne lesions, it was possible to then investigate the influence of a monographed acne treatment, salicylic acid, and a newly developed pre-solubilized form of azelaic acid alone and in combination with each other. In addition, samples of dissolved azelaic acid


derived from the pre-solubilized technology were compared against suspended azelaic acid as is typically found in commercial gels.


Materials and methods Reconstructed human epidermis The 3D human epidermis full thickness EpiDermFT (EFT-400, MatTek Company; production site: Bratislava, Slovakia) consisting of a fully differentiated epidermis with cornified epidermal layers: keratin 5 expressed in basal cells, involucrin and keratin 10 expressed in the spinous and granular layers.


Epidermal Arrival Day 1 Negative Control


Untreated Control Active Treated


Figure 1: Assay protocol schematic www.personalcaremagazine.com April 2024 PERSONAL CARE 48h 48h 72h


TABLE 1: SUMMARY OF INGREDIENTS TESTED Active Ingredient


5% Solubilized Azelaic Acid 5% Suspended Azelaic Acid 10% Solubilized Azelaic Acid 10% Suspended Azelaic Acid 1% Salicylic Acid 2% Salicylic Acid 1% Salicylic Acid/5% Azelaic Acid 2% Salicylic Acid/5% Azelaic Acid 2% Salicylic Acid/10% Azelaic Acid


The dermal compartment is composed of


a collagen matrix containing viable normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF). The epidermal and dermal layers are mitotically and metabolically active and exhibit in vivo- like morphological and growth characteristics which are uniform and highly reproducible. A well-developed basement membrane is present at the dermal/epidermal junction. The tissues have been cultured on


specially prepared cell culture inserts (surface 1 cm2


) where all biological components of


the epidermis and the culture medium are tested by the manufacturer for viral, bacterial, fungal and mycoplasma contamination. The tissues were shipped at 4°C in 24-well plates containing a nutrient agarose gel and may be stored at 2-8°C for up to six days prior to use. Cultures can be continued for up to two


weeks with good retention of normal epidermal morphology. Immediately after arrival of the test system in the laboratory, data sheets enclosed with the batch, shipment integrity, and color and temperature of the agar medium used for transport were checked. The tissues were then removed from the agarose nutrient solution under a sterile air flow cabin. The inserts were rapidly transferred to


12-well plates previously filled with culture medium without antibiotics and incubated at 37°C, 5% CO2


, saturated humidity. The day of Untreated Tissues


107


the test, the medium was replaced with fresh growth medium without antibiotics.


Test materials All test materials were provided by Vantage and are summarized in Table 1. Curazelic® 44 [INCI: Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine (and) Azelaic Acid], is a newly developed, pre- solubilized form of azelaic acid that contains 44% azelaic acid dissolved in a tertiary amine emollient, and it was further diluted in DI water to make 5% and 10% solubilized azelaic acid for the test.


The salicylic acid employed was also


provided as a pre-solubilized solution in the same emollient (Curcylic 40). Similarly, Curcylic 40 was further diluted in deionised to make 1% and 2% salicylic acid for use. 10% suspended azelaic acid was a commercially available product (Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%, The Ordinary, USA).


Growth of bacterial suspension and tissue treatments Before the assay, the test strain C. acnes ATCC 11827, was sown on agar culture medium, starting from glycerinate culture stored at <-70°C and incubated at 37°C, for one to two days in anaerobic conditions to check its normal colony morphology. A second subculture was performed to use fresh culture.


Preparation of microbial suspension and colonization procedure The day of the test, the bacterial suspension was resuspended in sterile saline solution, adjusting the concentration level of 107-108 CFU/mL by OD reading (via spectrophotometer), considering an application volume of 60μL. The bacterial suspension was then used for


the FT skin colonization procedure: 6μL of lipid mix (olive oil and neutral TAG mixed 1:1) on the tissues surface added with 60μL of C. acnes ATCC 11827, 107-108 CFU/mL for 72h at 37°C, 5% CO2


and 90% RH. A viable count on agar plates


was performed to check the starting inoculum concentration.


Colonization with C.acnes ATCC 11827 Cultural media collection for ELISA assays Test Item Treatments Maintenance media w/out absorbance change


24h 24h


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