SKIN CARE
This plays into the fact that phenomena which are closely linked to, for instance, skincare products have now conquered their own position in the consumer market. The use of facial skincare devices, for example, has shown strong growth in the last few years.9 Massage is another such example of a phenomenon which has gained important ground in the marketplace. Massage leads to psychological relaxation and can therefore play an important role in improving a person’s wellbeing.10,11
Skin sensitivity 3.0
Moderate In addition, massage has interesting
and potent physiological effects on skin.12,13 Bridging the gap between effective skincare
with facial massage is seemingly ubiquitous in the marketplace. A simple Google search for “facial massage” and “sensitive skin” leads to thousands of results of brands and clinics providing products and services related to facial massage for sensitive skin, many of them claiming that skin becomes less reactive and more relaxed. This is intuitively unsurprising as there is a large psychological aspect to skin sensitivity, as described above. As already mentioned, people with
sensitive, stressed skin have a relatively high level of suffering. The expectations of a cosmetic product are just as high. What does an active ingredient need to do to meet these expectations? Further, where is the measurable added value to the psychological effect that the use of cosmetic products already has, especially in combination with a facial massage?
Comparison between normal skincare and skincare + facial massage AnnonaSense CLR™ (Cherimoya; INCI: Annona Cherimola Fruit Extract) is an upcycled active ingredient from CLR which was reported on earlier. It acts as an agonist on the CB2 (Cannabinoid Receptor Type 2), thus supporting the skin in maintaining or regaining health and robustness.14 Earlier studies indeed showed that Cherimoya
was able to reduce sensitivity of skin as well as the overall appearance of skin. The use of an aqueous gel with 3% Cherimoya showed to increase wellbeing and quality of life and reduce persistent skin itching. New and larger studies with Cherimoya have
been performed on facial skin and are reported on in this article. In these new studies a comparison was made between three cohorts of volunteers with sensitive and/or atopic skin which used different facial skincare products for four weeks (twice daily application of the products). One cohort normally applied an oil-
in-water cream containing 3% Cherimoya, another normally applied the same formulation without Cherimoya (‘placebo’). A third cohort of volunteers applied the placebo with facial massage. One of the inclusion criteria for this last cohort of volunteers was that they enjoyed facial massage and found it pleasant and relaxing. The following massage technique was used
to standardize the facial massage and, before the start of the study, the volunteers were trained to performed the massage: Starting at the central line, gently and slowly
www.personalcaremagazine.com Minimal Slight Not
2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0
Cherimoya (3%) Figure 1: Evolution of skin sensitivity
stroke your forehead towards the temples. Repeat ten times. Connect your palms as in prayer. Place
fingers at each side of the nose, joining palms at the chin. Sweep gently and slowly from the central line towards your ears and over your earlobes. Repeat ten times. Cover your face with your fingers. Starting at
the top of the forehead, run your fingers down across your face as in a smooth caress. Repeat ten times. Breathe deeply and try to relax. Enjoy the
moment. Added to this training, a video was made
available to the volunteers in this cohort to help remind them how to apply the massage technique.
Skin sensitivity Sensitivity of skin was assessed at t = 0 and t = four weeks at the end of the study. The assessment took place by using capsaicin (Capsaicin Facial Neurosensitivity Test). Six test solutions were used, five dilutions of
capsaicin (C1, C2, C3, C4 and C5) and a vehicle control (V). The vehicle (V) was 10% ethanol (≥99.0% purity) with 90% water (sterile, distilled water) made as a volume/volume solution. The test site was the nasolabial fold, with the capsaicin applied to one side and the control applied to the other. The concentrations were as follows: ■ C1 = 3.16 x 10–5% (lowest concentration). ■ C2 = 1.0 x 10–4% ■ C3 = 3.16 x 10–4% ■ C4 = 1.0 x 10–3% ■ C5 = 3.16 x 10–3% (highest concentration). Capsaicin concentration was applied in
increasing concentrations with a three-minute wait between applications. The test subject was asked to describe the intensity of the feeling ( Table 1). The test was stopped when the subject
TABLE 1 Grade
1
2 3 4 5
Intensity
Doubtful, barely perceptible Slightly perceptible
Moderately perceptible Strongly perceptible Painful
Table 1: Capsaicin concentration was applied in increasing concentrations with a three-minute wait between applications. The test subject was asked to describe the intensity of the feeling
reported a sensation lasting more than 30 seconds on the capsaicin side. From this experiment, the so-called
capsaicin response was calculated (see figure 1), with some remarkable results. The treatment with Cherimoya led to a significant 30.3% reduction of skin sensitivity. Skin sensitivity was reduced one whole grade, from moderately sensitive to slightly sensitive. The treatments with placebo and the ones with the facial massage tendentially reduced skin sensitivity somewhat (11.5% and 13.8%, respectively), but these changes were not significant.
Skin appearance The condition of the skin of the face and neck was assessed by an expert assessor at t = 0 and t = four weeks. Assessments were made at each of the
following sites: ■ Cheeks ■ Area around the nostrils ■ Nasolabial folds The test sites were evaluated for signs of cutaneous irritation. Erythema was recorded using the following ranking scale:
April 2024 PERSONAL CARE
t = 0 weeks ■ ■ t = 4 weeks ■ ■
30.3% 11.5% 13.8%
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Placebo
Placebo + Massage
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