36 SKIN CARE
Slight uniform erythema
Nostrils
Slight patchy erythema
No erythema
1.0 0.9 0.8 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1 0
-63.6% Cheeks -34.4% -100%
t = 0 weeks ■ ■ t = 4 weeks ■ ■ Nasolabial fold
Figure 1: Evolution of skin appearance
0 = No erythema. 0.5 = Slight, patchy erythema. 1
= Slight, uniform erythema.
The volunteers in the study were included in the study only when they had slight uniform erythema at maximum. This is in accordance with the cosmetic and not medicinal nature of Cherimoya. Results are presented in Figure 2. With
Cherimoya, the erythema on the cheeks, nasolabial folds and around the nostrils was significantly reduced whereas the treatments with placebo and the massage tended to lead to an increase in erythema and, arguably, worse skin appearance.
Conclusion To provide an effective solution, the vicious circle of stress and irritation must first be broken. With this study, a first unique attempt has been made to compare the normal application of a cosmetic emulsion and a facial massage with this same formulation on two aspects of skin that are essential for the consumer: its sensitivity and appearance. As can be concluded from the above
results, there are only minimal and statistically insignificant differences between the results obtained for the normal application of the placebo and the placebo + facial massage. The use of a natural upcycled active
ingredient such as Cherimoya was shown to strongly reduce skin sensitivity and improve skin appearance. It might be an interesting approach to make a comparison between the normal application of a skincare product with Cherimoya and an identical formulation + facial massage. This might be a topic for future research.
“The more sensitive the skin, the lower
quality of life”6 is an important realization that emphasizes the importance of effectively addressing sensitive skin. This is not just an
PERSONAL CARE April 2024
academic question, it is also plainly visible in the marketplace. Consumer behaviour is constantly evolving, which also means that consumer interest in skincare brands is growing. Reports from and about L’Oréal clearly revealed that dermatological beauty is becoming more important for the consumer.15 A report from Mintel in 2023 states that 49%
of female facial skincare users in the United Kingdom use “derma brand” products,16
i.e.,
dermocosmetics, in other words, cosmetic “pharmacy brands,” such as La Roche Posay, Cetaphil, Cerave, Eucerin, etc. These are brands to which consumers tend
to be drawn because of their perceived skin problems and which they see as a first step to improve the condition of their skin (and mind) before seeing a dermatologist. The results shown in this article illustrate the potency of Cherimoya for the skin as well as consumer wellbeing.
References 1. WHO. WHO highlights urgent need to transform mental health and mental health care. 17 June 2022.
https://www.who.int/ news/item/17-06-2022-who-highlights- urgent-need-to-transform-mental-health- and-mental-health-care
2. Marahatta S et al. Self-cosmetic care during the COVID-19 pandemic and its psychological impacts: Facts behind the closed doors. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2021 Oct;20(10):3093– 3097
3. Hughes O et al. Is it really ever ‘just acne’? Considering the psychodermatology of acne. Br. J. Dermatol. 2023 Oct 30;189(Suppl 1):i11– i16
4. Mostafa N et al. Improving Psychological Health Outcomes in Children with Atopic Dermatitis. Clin. Cosmet. Investig. Dermatol. 2023 Oct 10;16:2821–2827
5. Glas B et al. Skin sensitivity to capsaicin,
perceived stress and burn out among patients with building-related symptoms. Int. Arch. Occup. Environ. Health. 2021 Jul;94(5):791– 797
6. Misery L et al. Sensitive skin: psychological effects and seasonal changes. J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol. 2007 May;21(5):620–628
7. Evangelista M et al. Usage Patterns and Self- Esteem of Female Consumers of Antiaging Cosmetic Products. Cosmetics. 2022; 9(3):49
8. Mintel. The Holistic Beauty Consumer. 2022.
https://clients.mintel.com/
9. Mintel.
https://clients.mintel.com/ 10. Ohkawa Y et al. Physiological and psychological effectiveness of facial massage in women: A randomized crossover trial. JINR. 2023, 2(1), e2021-0005
PC
11. Kolankowska-Trzcińska M. Psychocosmetology – the opportunity to reduce stress in a beauty salon with the use of music therapy, massage, yoga, and meditation. Aesth. Cosmetol. Med. 2022;11(4):123-130
12. Chien WC et al. The Pressurized Skin: A Review on the Pathological Effect of Mechanical Pressure on the Skin from the Cellular Perspective. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2023 Oct 15;24(20):15207
13. Maeda K, Koizumi S, Sano T, Yoshimura A, Kiriyama H, Mimura S. Utility of the Teslar Facial Massager for Skin Elasticity and the Mechanism of its Effects. Cosmetics. 2018; 5(3):49
14. Pacher P et al. Is lipid signaling through cannabinoid 2 receptors part of a protective system? Prog. Lipid. Res. 2011 Apr;50(2):193- 211
15. L’Oréal.
https://www.loreal-finance.com/eng/ news-release/first-quarter-2023-sales and
https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/ Article/2023/10/23/Derma-beauty-sales- fuel-growth-for-L-Oreal.
16. Mintel. Women’s Facial Skincare. 2023. https://
clients.mintel.com/.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Cherimoya (3%)
Placebo
Placebo + Massage
Cherimoya (3%)
Placebo
Placebo + Massage
Cherimoya (3%)
Placebo
Placebo + Massage
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