Volume 25 Issue 4
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Editor’s Comment Cover Story: Ashland News
149 Formulations Be inspired for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES
17 Interview: Putting on a show Ahead of in-cosmetics Global in Paris this month, editor Tim Probert talks to event director Roziani Zulkifli about what it takes to oversee the world’s leading personal care ingredient trade show
23 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day 2024 preview Taking place on 1-2 May in New York City at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Centre in Manhattan, this year’s NYSCC Suppliers’ Day will be the biggest edition to date in its 45-year history
34 Going face to face: skincare versus massage CLR reveals the results of a study that compares the skin benefits of its natural upcycled active ingredient Cherimoya with a placebo plus facial massage
40 Preventing skin cancer: new technologies needed? UK startup Kutanios explains why new sun care ingredients that offer better protection from the effects of UV light, and are non- absorbable, more stable and eco-friendly would be welcome additions to the personal care sector
45 Successful scale-up: foolproof your formula Orean head of process chemistry Sarah Lucas Marsden explains the key principles for a successful scaling up of formulations from lab to shelf
51 Formulation advantages of transparent oil thickening Berg + Schmidt describes a new ingredient for natural and globally approved oil gels, transforming textures and new playful concepts
56 Replacing synthetics naturally and effectively Replacement of synthetic ingredients with natural ingredients is not as simple as removal of each material one by one and substituting it, as Alchemy Ingredients explains in depth
60 Lysolecithin ingredient to restore sensitive skin By industrialization of whole-cell enzyme technology, Nikko Chemicals has developed a multi-functionalized lecithin as a product with high naturality and sustainability. This ingredient can do multiple tasks to improve the skin barrier
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65 Multi-omic skin protection with an ecosystem active Provital takes the wraps off Triplobiome, a biotech platform that uses plant endophytes to produce new natural active ingredients. Shiloxome, the first ingredient developed from this platform, brings together age-defying benefits while protecting the skin
72 In vitro testing – not just for product claims In vitro methods cannot capture all complexities in the body that occur during in vivo tests. Nevertheless, they are an indispensable part of the evaluation process of product effects on the skin. The various in vitro measurement methods are on the rise and will become increasingly important in the future, as Courage + Khazaka explains
77 Stereoisomeric flavonoids from active plant cells Naolys describes how certain active plant cells are highly reliable as bioactive ingredients to induce the right defensive mechanism against oxidative stress
83 A perfect duo: bakuchiol and phospholipids Lipoid Kosmetik demonstrates how a combination of bakuchiol and unsaturated phospholipids offers retinol-like activity with superior performance over bakuchiol formulations without phospholipids
89 Empowering natural skin barrier function Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, in collaboration with the Infinity Institute in France, has discovered a new protein: LCE6A. LCE6A, part of the ‘Late Cornified Envelope’ protein family, is known to be essential for the mechanical resistance of the corneocytes in the stratum corneum
96 Novel oil-soluble bioactive for eye area are Gattefossé has developed an original blend of lipophilic metabolites that offers cosmetic brands a versatile solution capable of addressing various signs of fatigue simultaneously
101 A global consumer journey in scalp care Rahn describes an active ingredient that targets a disbalanced scalp microbiota, an oily and sensitive scalp, providing relief from scalp discomfort
106 Benefits of solubilized azelaic acid on C. acnes Vantage has developed a new form of azelaic acid in which the acid is presolubilized in a mild skin emollient. It has been shown that delivery of dissolved azelaic acid can show superior performance to suspended azelaic acid and can help to improve the inflammatory effects of topically applied salicylic acid
111 Novel Alteromonas for tackling wrinkles LipoTrue describes a marine ingredient derived from a newly identified Alteromonas species (Alteromonas lipotrueae) that relaxes expression wrinkles acting along the three steps of neuromuscular communication
117 Senolytic science: plant extract for well-ageing DSM-Firmenich reveals the findings of research that shows how a Epilobium fleischeri extract can selectively clear senescent cells – so-called ‘zombie’ cells - from the skin
125 Juniper berry extract for improved skin brightness Ichimaru Pharcos introduces a juniper berry extract that activates proteasome and autophagy serving as cleaning systems in cells, reduces lipofuscin, and leaves the skin bright and clear with less age spots
131 Sophorolipid for creating refined facial cleansers Croda describes how its sophorolipid biosurfactant can help create sophisticated facial cleansers that meet the growing needs of the personal care market
135 BONUS digital issue content Exclusive, digital-only articles by Mitsubishi Life Science (skincare), Arxada (multifunctionals), Active Micro Technologies (preservatives) and Holiferm (surfactants)
April 2024 PERSONAL CARE 45
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