146 BIOSURFACTANTS


Sophorolipids: boosting surfactant sustainability


Lawrence Clarke - Holiferm


Biosurfactants are surfactants of microbial origin - from yeast, fungi or bacteria. Produced in nature for a variety of reasons, biosurfactants have multi-functional properties and benefits ready to be harnessed by formulators and product manufacturers. Thanks to their hydrophilic head and


hydrophobic tail; biosurfactants have the ability to lower surface tension at liquid interfaces, making them invaluable in both biological and industrial settings (Figure 1). As the world grapples with the challenges


of sustainability and environmental awareness, biosurfactants have emerged as the next progression of sustainability for the industry and an important alternative to traditional surfactants and their first-generation bio-based alternatives. Conventional surfactants, predominantly


derived from fossil fuels, have long been the workhorses of industries ranging from pharmaceuticals to food processing. However, the environmental drawbacks


of their production, usage, and disposal have forced the need for eco-friendly alternatives. Biosurfactants represent a sustainable and biodegradable solution to this global challenge. Glycolipids including sophorolipids are


currently considered by industry among the most promising biosurfactants. Sophorolipids are a class of biosurfactant produced by yeast, primarily Starmerella bombicola. These compounds possess a range of beneficial


PERSONAL CARE April 2024


Hydrophobic tail HO HO HO O HO OH Hydrophobic head Figure 1: Structure of the acidic sophorolipid; major component of HoliSurf HF


properties that make them attractive for various applications.


Properties and benefits Skin mildness and hydration Sophorolipids are exceptionally mild on skin. Opting for mild surfactants in cosmetics offers many advantages. These gentle cleansing agents prioritise skin health by preserving the natural lipid barrier, improving skin hydration, preventing dryness, and minimising irritation. Mild surfactants ensure a luxurious and


soothing skincare experience, making them ideal for sensitive skin types.


Anti-microbial boosting activity Sophorolipids improve the condition of the skin and can be used effectively in combination with active ingredients to safely deliver them and maximise their efficacy. Sophorolipids themselves have shown


promising antifungal activity against plant and human pathogens1


such as Cutibacterium acnes,2


and gram-positive bacteria a bacteria linked


to the cause of acne and other skin issues.3 Sophorolipids also show activity against dandruff.4


Foaming and detergency Sophorolipids have foaming and detergency


www.personalcaremagazine.com OH O O O O OH Acidic sophorolipid OH


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