58 NATURALS
However, natural colours can be used effectively in some cases. Colours can be oil soluble, water soluble, or
in the form of insoluble pigments. The water- soluble group of products include organic molecules such as blackcurrant extract (red/ purple), which can colour a cream or other water based preparation. These form part of a group of molecules known as anthocyanins and other examples in this group include coloured potatoes, flowers and carrots. Another common natural colourant is
annetto, which contains bixin and norbixin, a yellow oil soluble colour. Other natural colours include chlorophyll (green), beta-carotene (orange), curcumin (yellow-orange) and betanin from beetroot (red/purple). Some of these compounds have a pH requirement and are more stable on the acidic side. Many do not claim to be fully light stable on a long term basis so caution is needed when using them. In the natural pigments (insoluble) sector,
compounds such as iron oxides (brown) and vegetable carbon (black) can be used, alongside coloured substances such as flower petals, crushed fruit and vegetables and peels. Many of these natural colours can be derived from the food industry, although in cosmetics the shelf life is normally longer, so colours need to be more light and pH stable.
Fragrances This category is fairly easy to replace with natural alternatives, but care needs to be taken from a regulatory and safety point of view. Essential oils can be very effective fragrance oil substitutes, however the level of use in a final product and the advice for different types of products needs to be taken into account as they are potentially irritant and toxic raw materials, despite being natural. As an example, wintergreen oil is toxic at
fairly low levels, and cinnamon and clove can cause skin irritation. Another consideration when using essential oils is that they do not contain the carrier oils, solvents, stabilisers and other synthetic components of fragrance oils. This means that they may change over time in a cosmetic product, or even fade away easily.
FORMULATION 1: FACE CREAM Ingredients
Water
Propylene Glycol PEG-100 Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Paraffinum Liquidum
Petrolatum Carbomer
CI 15850 Parfum
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Citric Acid
5 3
3 10 5
0.1 0.1
0.5 1
% w/w Natural alternative q.s. Water
Vegetable Glycerine
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Shea Butter Xanthan Gum
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Lactobacillus Ferment
q.s. Citric acid PERSONAL CARE April 2024
% w/w q.s.
5 3 10
TABLE 4: NATURAL EMOLLIENTS Emollient
Vegetable oil (Sunflower, Olive, Sweet Almond etc.)
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Coco-Caprylate Dicaprylyl Ether
Coconut Alkanes or C9-C12 Alkanes
Squalane
Mixtures of wax and natural resin plus vegetable oil/butter or just vegetable butters
What It Can Replace
Liquid paraffin, synthetic liquid esters
Paraffin oil, Dimethicone Lighter silicones
Cyclopentasiloxane and other volatile silicones
Volatile silicones Liquid Paraffin Petrolatum However, there are many natural cosmetic
products that successfully use essential oils as their fragrance component without the use of synthetic compounds, even though this is an expensive option.
Preservatives A notoriously difficult category of materials to replace, the field of truly natural preservatives is small and not particularly effective. In order to replace broad spectrum preservative systems such as phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin, a blend of different natural ingredients need to be used. One common way to improve the efficacy
and reduce the amount of preservative required is to add humectants such as glycerine, 1,2 Propanediol or butylene glycol. This will reduce water activity as well as overall water percentage and help with natural preservation. Anhydrous or nearly anhydrous products could also be considered for the same reason. If water-based preservatives are required,
there are some natural choices available, for example Lactobacillus Ferment, which is a probiotic, although it does require an acidic or neutral pH to work. Other systems include
Notes
Could also use naturally derived PG
3 Or any high HLB emulsifier
No need to substitute
Gives a similar skin feel and also colourless
5 Gives a similar rich feel
0.5 Higher level required
Red Carrot Extract 0.1 Natural colourant 0.5 Natural fragrance
3 Natural preservative q.s. No need to substitute
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Notes On Use
Can have a heavy and occlusive feel for skincare and work best balanced with lighter esters.
Similar viscosity and skin feel to paraffin oil, transparent and colourless.
Light ester Very light ester Light hydrocarbons with high volatility
As Squalane is a hydrocarbon, it is a close (but much more expensive) natural alternative to paraffin oil.
The combination of a higher melting point wax with vegetable oils can effectively mimic the skin feel of petroleum.
variations on benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate, these are classed as natural systems even though they are synthetic. Other extracts such as magnolia extract,
grapefruit seed extract and naticide (INCI: Fragrance) can be used, although they are often most effective when combined with boosters such as caprylyl alcohol caprylic acid, gluconolactone or glyceryl caprylate.
Conclusion Replacement of synthetic ingredients with natural ingredients is not as simple as removal of each material one by one and substituting it. Care needs to be taken to keep good stability and texture in order to produce a finished formulation that the consumer will accept and enjoy, even if it is more expensive. It is anticipated that the trend for sustainable,
plant based ingredients will continue, however with cost of living pressures, formulations still need to be affordable, putting pressure on material suppliers, brand owners and formulators. Clever, creative natural materials are out there - so get experimenting!
PC
FORMULATION 2: SHAMPOO Ingredients
Water
Sodium Laureth Sulphate
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Dimethiconol Glycerine Carbomer
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Citric Acid 30 10 5 10 0.1 1
% w/w Natural alternative q.s. Water
Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate
Coco-Glucoside or Coco-Betaine
Coconut Oil Glycerine Xanthan Gum
Gluconolactone, Sodium Benzoate
q.s. Citric acid
% w/w q.s.
Notes
30 Or other natural alternative
10 Or other natural alternative
5
Gives a similar smoothing effect.
10 No need to substitute
0.5 Higher level required
1 Natural preservative q.s. No need to substitute
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