ANTI-AGEING


proliferating, quiescent cells, such as those involved in tissue repair and normal cell turnover. Figure 2 illustrates the self-propagating


cycle of senescent fibroblasts accumulating in the dermis, secreting SASPs, and triggering senescent keratinocytes to build up in the epidermis. This snowballing of senescent cells and SASPs ultimately results in more wrinkles and sagging skin and can be investigated by measuring the increased expression of the senescence markers p16 and p21.


Epilobium fleischeri extract It required the combined screening and analytical skills of senescence experts and personal care researchers at DSM-Firmenich, in Switzerland, to discover and develop DSM- Firmenich’s first 100%-natural, true senolytic bioactive, which is named EterwellTM


Youth


(patent pending). Epilobium fleischeri, a rare alpine


willowherb, is sustainably grown and harvested in July, when its flower buds first appear. The leaves and stems are gently extracted in ethanol and dried, following the principles of green chemistry. Epilobium fleischeri extract is standardized based on its flavonoid content, which is calculated as myricitrin, via ultra-high-pressure liquid chromatography (UHPLC). Using in vitro and ex vivo models of aged skin, Epilobium fleischeri extract has been shown to act on the epidermis, dermal-epidermal junction, and dermis at the cellular level. In clinical studies, Epilobium fleischeri


extract reduced the appearance of wrinkles, helped smooth the skin, improved skin texture and structure, and increased skin elasticity to restore healthy-looking skin.


The mode of action of Epilobium fleischeri extract Epilobium fleischeri extract acts at the cellular level, clearing only senescent cells through targeted apoptosis in both the dermal and epidermal layers of the skin. Consequently, damaging SASPs are reduced, and collagen


35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0


*p<0.05 ***p<0.005 31 Senolytic assay -52% *** 19 *** 15


11 *


24 ***


35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0


0.001 Control 0.0005 0.00001 0.00002


Epilobium Fleischeri *dry extract


Control 29 -45% 16 ***


22 ***


Epilobe ES CM-22.30 5ul; PDA 350nm


0.120 0.110


0.100 0.090 0.080 0.070 0.060 0.050 0.040 0.030 0.020 0.010 0.000


0.00 1.00 2.00 3.00 4.00 5.00 Minutes Figure 4: UHPLC chromatogram of Epilobium Fleischeri Leaf/Stem Extract showing flavonoids 6.00 7.00 8.00 9.00 10.00


119


Figure 5: Myricetin and Myricitrin, the 3-0-rhammoside of Myricetin


production is increased, which promotes skin recovery.


With the reduction of senescent cells, the


skin’s normal cellular activity returns and is boosted. The skin structure improves, reducing wrinkles and producing skin that looks and feels healthier (Figure 3).


Senolytic assay


28 ***


Flavonoids, the source of senolytic activity The UHPLC chromatogram (Figure 4) shows that myricitrin is the dominant flavonoid among the many present in Epilobium fleischeri dry extract. In addition to having antioxidant, anti-


inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities, myricitrin, the 3-O-rhamnoside of myricetin, is demonstrably senolytic.4 Myricitrin is structurally similar to fisetin


and quercetin, which along with the chemical navitoclax, also have senolytic activity.5


The


structures of myricetin and myricitrin are shown in Figure 5.


Senolytic activity Flow cytometry, using senescence-associated beta-galactosidase as the marker to gauge the % of senescent cells, was used to demonstrate the senolytic activity of Epilobium fleischeri dry extract and myricitrin in vitro. A mix of 70% normal dermal fibroblasts


25μM 5μM Myricitrin Figure 6: Senolytic activity of both Epilobium Fleischeri dry extract and myricitrin www.personalcaremagazine.com 1μM


and 30% hydrogen-peroxide-induced senescent dermal fibroblast cells were subject to concentrations of Epilobium fleischeri dry extract of 0.00002–0.0010% and concentrations of myricitrin of 1–25 μM. As the graph in Figure 6 shows, with both Epilobium fleischeri dry extract and myricitrin,


April 2024 PERSONAL CARE


Senescent cells (%) (%)


Senescent cells (%) (%)


AU


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