80 SKIN CARE
suggests that the skin is a major source of serum inflammatory markers. An increase in such pro-inflammatory cytokines is associated with chronic ageing disorders. Studies on the anti-inflammatory potential
of active plant cells containing flavonoids allow for the assessment of the cells’ impact on the release of inflammatory mediators, including IL-1α, IL-6, PGE2, TNFα, VEGF, TGFβ, IL-8, and IL-10. This comprehensive evaluation provides insights into the anti-inflammatory properties of active plant cells by examining their influence on a range of key inflammatory mediators. These studies contribute to a deeper
understanding of the potential benefits of active plant cells in modulating inflammatory responses, thereby offering promising applications in skincare formulations designed to address inflammatory conditions. Once again, numerous plant cells exhibit
significant anti-inflammatory results. These include cotton, cherry tree, lilac, Chinese peony, aloe vera and many more. These diverse botanicals contribute to the growing understanding of active plant cells’ potential in addressing inflammation, revealing a wide range of anti-inflammatory capabilities for sensitive skincare applications.
Consequences of senescent cell accumulation in the skin Senescent cells accumulate in skin tissue with age.20
S. epidermidis ■ C.xerosis ■ S. aureus ■ C. acnes ■
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Control
-11% -38% -29% -20% +63% +46% 0.5% 1% 2.5%
Figure 5: Evaluation of the adhesion of four bacterial strains: Staphylococcus epidermidis, Staphylococcus aureus, Corynebacterium xerosis, and Cutibacterium acnes
+83%
-22% -48%
-11%
-62% -43%
SASP OVER-REACTION:
IL-6, IL8, TNF-a, MMP-S, ROS, ETC...
The slow accumulation of these
cells can promote chronic inflammation in the skin leading to several cutaneous disorders.21 As mentioned above, keratinocytes act as regulators of skin barrier functionality and work to maintain epidermal homeostasis, which is largely dependent on the rate of keratinocyte cell proliferation. More specifically, the rates of proliferation and differentiation are unbalanced when senescent cells accumulate in the skin tissue.
When senescent, keratinocytes lose
the ability to proliferate, thereby impairing regenerative function.22
Keratinocytes may
express senescence in vitro and in vivo following UV-B irradiation and subsequent DNA damage.23 Similarly, dermal fibroblasts are commonly studied in relation to senescence and exhibit an increase in senescence with age. Lastly, senescent melanocytes limit the proliferation of keratinocytes and are associated with epidermal atrophy. The presence of senescence in various skin cell types contributes to the degradation of skin function seen with age. The investigation into fibroblast senescence
involves the study of cell senescence. Senescent fibroblasts exhibit the ability to degrade the extracellular matrix through an increase in metalloproteinases, including interstitial collagenase and stromelysin (MMP3), among other modifications. These cells are further characterized by an active metabolism, featuring an overexpression of beta- galactosidase due to heightened enzymatic activity. The evaluation, in this context, quantifies
the level of beta-galactosidase in cultured fibroblasts to assess the population of cells
PERSONAL CARE April 2024
INITIATED SENESCENCE
SASP ACTIVATION
SENESCENT CELL CLEARANCE AND BENEFICIAL CONSEQUENCES:
SKIN RENEWAL WITH BALANCED KERATINOCYTE PROLIFERATION AND DEDIFFERENTIATION
SENESCENCE ACCUMULATION
Figure 6: Schematic representation of the cellular senescence induced by stress. A senescent cell activates a SASP factors which subsequently generate a beneficial and balanced keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation. If senescent cells accumulate, an overexpression of the SASP (IL, TNF, ROS,…) creates damages such as skin dysbiosis, inflammation and unbalanced keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation
undergoing senescence. This measurement serves as an indicator of the activity of active plant cells concerning the state of cellular senescence. Two active plant cells, Damask rose and
white water lily, demonstrate extraordinary potential in counteracting dermal alterations associated with cellular senescence. Their unique properties make them standout contributors to addressing and mitigating the effects of senescence-related changes in the skin’s dermal layer. Quercetin is a bioactive flavonol that is found in a variety of fruits and vegetables.24
biological and pharmacological importance of quercetin is evident from its potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory properties. Moreover, it is an effective agent known to induce apoptosis, making it a first- generation senolytic agent.25,26
The
Conclusion The active plant cells obtained from cell dedifferentiation and elicitation provide metabolites made of stereoisomeric stilbenes and flavonoids. The isomeric mixtures are not quite the same as in plant extracts. These very much depend on climate, the seasons and also
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IF SENESCENT CELLS ACCUMULATION
DAMAGED CONSEQUENCES: ●
SKIN MICOBIAL DYSBIOSIS ● SKIN INFLAMMATION
● UNBALANCED KERATINOCYTE
PROFILERATION AND DEDIFFERENTIATION
Ratio
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