ANTI-AGEING
Senolytic science: plant extract for well-ageing
Dr Leithe Budel, François Paul – DSM-Firmenich
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Skin ageing continues to be consumers’ top concern. However, a new survey commissioned in November 2023 by DSM-Firmenich shows that consumers representing four of the world’s largest personal care markets are looking for healthy ageing or well-ageing solutions that holistically tackle all their skin concerns, such as skin sagging, wrinkles, the loss of skin elasticity and firmness, skin roughness, a dull complexion, and age spots, which lead to a loss of self- confidence (Figure 1). Consumers do not want to be reminded
that they are ageing, and for more than 50% of skin care users, “anti-ageing” has a negative connotation; however, the ageing consumer would welcome a scientifically supported breakthrough that brings new life to their skin.
Senolytic science – a breakthrough Senolytic science is a cutting-edge discipline that is moving toward infinite well-ageing. As cells age or become damaged by ultraviolet rays, oxidants, toxins, and pollutants, they can do one of two things when repair is not possible. They either enter an irreversible stage known as senescence or undergo an orderly form of cell death known as apoptosis. When skin cells enter senescence, they begin
to damage the surrounding tissue. Senescent cells no longer divide and produce the key
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proteins collagen and elastin poorly. Furthermore, they also secrete damaging
factors. Cells that enter proper apoptosis, on the other hand, are eliminated without causing harm to the organism. As more and more destructive senescent cells, which are also known as zombie cells, build up over time, they play an increasingly larger role in the characteristic signs of skin ageing. Extensive research shows that it is these
zombie cells that cause the impaired tissue function that leads to many of the clinical signs of ageing, such as wrinkles and fine lines, skin thinning, the loss of elasticity, irregular pigmentation, dryness, hair loss, and hair greying. The conclusion of these studies is that to achieve powerful rejuvenation, these zombie cells must be removed.1,2 Senolytic science investigates methods that
induce the removal of senescent cells through programmed cell death, as well as ways to deactivate the survival pathways that allow senescent cells to persist. By targeting these mechanisms, senolytics
aim to address a fundamental driver of tissue ageing. In a promising study by a Dutch research group in 2017, it was shown that senolytic activity can dramatically improve age-related changes. The Dutch study demonstrated that
ABSTRACT
Senescence cells are seen as fundamental drivers of tissue ageing. Senescent ‘zombie cells’ accumulate with age and cause damage through damaging secretions. Eliminating these cells is a revolutionary approach to restoring youthful skin. Research by experts in ageing has revealed that Epilobium fleischeri extract is a natural botanical senolytic (a substance that can selectively induce the death and removal of senescent cells). The experiments discussed in this paper show that Epilobium fleischeri extract can selectively clear senescent cells from the skin. In vitro evidence demonstrates the targeted elimination of senescent fibroblasts by Epilobium fleischeri extract, which is mediated by bioactive flavonoids. In vivo studies have shown the reduced expression of senescence biomarkers, improved collagen production, and dramatic improvements in multiple signs of skin ageing. In clinical trials, elasticity and tonicity were improved by 18% after two months of using a cream with 3% Epilobium fleischeri extract as compared with a control group using a placebo cream.
April 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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