ANTI-ACNE
Caspase-1 Assay Results (Optical Density @ 450nm)
1.4 1.2 1
0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0
C.Acne Treated Control
1%
Salicylic Acid
2%
Salicylic Acid
2%
Salicylic Acid/5% Solu Azelaic Acid
2%
Salicylic Acid/10% Solu Azelaic Acid
Figure 4: Comparison of 1% and 2% salicylic acid alone and in combinations 5% and 10% solubilized azelaic acid for expression of Caspase-1 indicating statistical significance (p≤0.05). All values shown were statistically significantly increased versus the untreated control (data not shown)
Salicylic acid versus combinations of salicylic acid and solubilized azelaic acid; Caspase-1 expression Results of the investigation of the treatment of the tissues with C. acnes followed by treatment with either 1% or 2% salicylic acid and combinations of salicylic acid with 5% and 10% solubilized azelaic acid for the release of Caspase-1 are shown in Figure 4. Caspase-1 is a potent inflammatory protease enzyme that is intimately linked to the skin’s innate immune response in acne inflammation.16 The data in Figure 4 indicates that the
inflammatory response noted for salicylic acid with TNF-a also appears to occur for expression of Caspase-1. Again, it was noted that at 2% salicylic acid and 10% azelaic acid, the highest concentrations examined of each, there is a significant reduction in expression of Caspase-1.
Conclusions Acne can be a serious problem for many people causing not only physical impairments but also psychological concerns as well. The use of antibiotics and retinoids has been beneficial at helping individuals overcome acne, but particularly in the case of antibiotics, the potential for the development of antimicrobial resistant microbes is a serious concern. In this respect, topical treatments are considered an excellent primary treatment regimen for mild acne and as a combination for more serious acne where antibiotics and retinoids are used as well. In the pantheon of topical actives that can
treat acne, in the US, the FDA’s list of approved ingredients is not lengthy. Azelaic acid is an ingredient that has been shown to be effective at helping mitigate some of the inflammatory problems associated with acne and it can also help improve skin that is showing signs of hyperpigmentation resulting from acne. However, azelaic acid is difficult to work with in finished formulations and most commercial products that employ the technology do so as dispersions and suspensions of the material.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Dispersed and/or suspended azelaic acid is likely not as effective at delivering benefits as dissolved azelaic acid. Through the development of Curazelic 44, a
new form of azelaic acid in which the acid is pre- solubilized in a mild skin emollient, it has been shown that delivery of dissolved azelaic acid can show superior performance to suspended azelaic acid and can help to improve the inflammatory effects of topically applied salicylic acid. This should significantly help improve
consumer compliance as improvements in skin benefits from topical acne treatments is a desirable target.
Acknowledgment The work presented here was done in collaboration with VitroScreen.
PC
References 1. Mias C, Mengeaud V, Pessou-Touya S, Dupaln H. Recent advances in understanding acne: Deciphering the relationship between Cutibacterium acnes and TH17 inflammatory pathway. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol. 2023; 37(Suppl. 2): 3-11
2. Kurokawa I, Nakase K. Recent advances in understanding and managing acne. F1000Research. 2020; 9: 792-800
3. Schachner LA, Alexis AF, Andriessen A, Berson D, Gold M, Goldberg DJ, Hu S, Keri, J, Kircik L, Woolery-Lloyd H. Insights into acne and skin barrier: Optimizing treatment regimens with ceramide-containing skincare. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2023; 22: 2902-2908
4. Borrel V, Gaannesen AV, Barreau M, Gaviard C, Duclairoir-Poc C, Hardouin J, Konto- Ghiorghi Y, Lefeuvre L, Feuilloley GJ. Adaptation of acneic and non acenic strains of Cutibacterium acnes to sebum-like environment. MicrobiolgyOpen. 2019; 8: e841
5. Thompson A. A spot of bother. New Scientist. 2023; 260: 36-39
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therapeutic conundrum. Int. J. Dermatol. 2024; Mar;63(3):306-310
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13. Fitton A, Goa KL. Azelaic Acid-A review of its pharmacological properties and therapeutic efficacy in acne and hyperpigmentary skin disorders. Drugs. 1991; 41: 780-798
14. Gruber JV, Holtz R. Living, quiescent Lactobacillus plantarum Lp90 probiotic, delivered topically to full thickness tissues in vitro via a just- add-water cream delivery system, stimulates the expression of elastin protein. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2023; 22: 2852-2860
15. Meloni M, Balzaretti S. In: Three-dimensional human skin models to investigate skin innate and immune-mediated responses to microorganisms. Dayan N (ed.). Skin Microbiome Handbook: From Basic Research to Product Development. Scrivener Publishing. 2020; pages 277-288
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April 2024 PERSONAL CARE p=0.001 p=0.00008 p=0.00008
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