FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
51
Formulation advantages of transparent oil thickening
Kristin Köhler, Sabrina Paltian - Berg + Schmidt ABSTRACT
Time dedicated to new formulation development is getting shorter and shorter which is why formulators are constantly looking for new solutions making their lives easier, i.e. easy to add-in ingredients which do not require too long process time. When it comes to transparent oil gels, viscosity and flow behaviour play an important role for the well-being of the consumer while applying the product. There are existing ingredients like polymers or organoclays which still leave some space for improvement. This article deals with a new ingredient solution for natural and globally approved oil gels, transforming textures and new playful concepts.
As with most cosmetic products, the actual value is determined by consumer expectation and perception of the formulation. Once applied, the product is assessed for its sensory properties and general application behaviour. Especially when it comes to oils and other liquid, anhydrous systems, it happens that the product itself is too runny, evaporates too quickly or does not remain at the targeted skin area e.g., active loaded facial oils. Besides, formulations with an optimized and modified texture will be perceived as more caring and luxurious, hence further increasing the products value. Other beauty rituals and routines like Ayurveda treatments are becoming
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more and more popular. Here, a longer spreading time of for example, jellified massage products, will help to prolong the impression of wellbeing. There are many more reasons why jellified oils are a desirable format for care concepts. To the formulator, however, it is most
important to find suitable functional ingredients to achieve stable and ideally transparent systems without losing resources on process time and energy costs.
Choosing the right thickening system Different systems to solidify oils exist on the market i.e. zinc or aluminum stearates, silicium
Jojoba Oil ■ Soja Oil ■ BergaBest MCT Oil ■ BergaCare FG Olive ■ BergaCare fg M12 ■ BergaCare FG L11 ■
dioxide or organo-clays. Most of them have a limited solubility, form three-dimensional network structures, and show an interparticle interaction. Furthermore, fatty acids, waxes or polymers
can be used for the purpose of oil thickening. However, not all of them work in the same way and are suitable choices for pure and transparent oil gels. The different options can be distinguished by their origin and behaviour i.e. formation of stabilizing and thickening structures. Organo-clays like hectorite and bentonite
belong to the class of layered silicate. They form crystal structure consisting of many layers and which can store oil in between these layers. This creates three-dimensional network structures that increase the viscosity of the oil. The texture from the pure oil changes from liquid to paste or solid.1,2 In contrast to that, polymers are long-
chain macromolecules consisting of repeating monomers.3
They create a three-dimensional
network with its long chains. Here, the oil is enclosed like a scaffold. Silica itself forms stable and transparent oil gels. However, the sensory often does not comply with consumer requirements.
0.00 5.00 (%) BergaCare FG Gel
Figure 1: Different oil types thickened at different use concentrations of rheology modifier blend compared to the pure oil
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Natural blend for oil thickening in cold process Besides the commonly known options previously described, formulators have further choices of blended products containing natural polymers based on castor oil. The combination
April 2024 PERSONAL CARE
Viscosity (mPas)
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