SKIN CARE
TABLE 3: SUMMARY OF THE IN VIVO PARAMETERS (0.1% LYSOLECITHIN INGREDIENT) Test parameters
Resolve sensitive skin sign (LAST score) Reduce redness (hemoglobin index) Improve hydration (SC hydration index) Restore skin barrier (TEWL) Shrink pores (pore size)
Smooth out rough skin (roughness index)
++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++
ingredient, compared to the initial. In comparison to the placebo, the erythema index in lysolecithin ingredient-treated skin was also significantly lower (Figure 3B).
Leads to healthy skin Furthermore, reduction in sensitive skin symptoms correlated well with improve major skin parameters such as hydration, water loss, pore size and roughness.
Improves hydration It was found that the moisture content of the SC increased from 32.4 to 35.4 after four weeks of continuous placebo use. In comparison to placebo, a Corneometer® reading of 32.7 increased to 48.6 after four weeks of using the lysolecithin ingredient. This is a massive 1.5 times increase, in
comparison to the initial measurements done on skin. This also made skin moisture significantly higher in comparison to the placebo. In literature, Corneometer reading of less than 30 indicates very dry and less than 40 as dry.8 In the clinical study, the average
Corneometer reading of the volunteers reveals that the skin is on the dry side. From in vitro tests, the lysolecithin ingredient increases moisture-related genes: AQP3, FLG, INV, SPT, OCLN (data not shown) and skin barrier components. In human trials, this combined effect meant 0.1% lysolecithin ingredient significantly increased total skin moisture.
Restores barrier Trans-epidermal water loss has long been a measure of skin barrier integrity. It measures the amount of water that escapes per area of the skin. In the clinical test, the TEWL of the cheek
detected by Tewameter was significantly decreased from 19.5 g/m2
/h to 15.5 g/m2 /h after
four weeks of use of 0.1% lysolecithin ingredient, compared to the initial measurements done on skin. This shows that lysolecithin ingredient can improve the skin barrier and can help the skin retain moisture.
Shrinks visible pores The appearance of visible pores depends on the skin condition. On humans, it was reported that pore sizes increase with age, so older skin has more visible pores compared to younger skin. On younger skin, visible
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pores are correlated mainly with excessive sebum secretion.9
An oily skin, however, is
said to occur in order to compensate for being dehydrated. As for dry skin, it is reported that fluctuations in ∆TEWL, was correlated with pore size.10
The higher the ∆TEWL, the more
visible pores were observed. These three skin conditions with visible pores also have another thing in common, and that is moisture loss. By improving the skin barrier, skin moisture
can be improved, and in effect, the appearance of visible pores can be resolved. Figure 3C shows the representative picture of volunteer #12 after using lysolecithin ingredient for four weeks. Using an instrument called Derma TOP, the
pores were converted into white spots that can be easily seen and analyzed. In the figure, the effect of 0.1% lysolecithin ingredient on skin can be visualized compared to placebo. The treated skin has a smaller pore area after four weeks of continual use. In comparison, the placebo has no visible change in pore area before and after four weeks of use. Measuring the pore area on the cheek that used lysolecithin ingredient showed that the pore area was significantly decreased, from 4.8 mm2
to 2.9 mm2 after four weeks of
use, in comparison to the initial values. In comparison to the placebo, the lysolecithin ingredient tended to decrease the pore area more than the placebo after four weeks of continual use.
Smooths out rough skin Another skin parameter that has correlations with skin moisture and TEWL is skin texture.11 The R2 value of Visioscan® gives a quantifiable value to the physiological condition of the living skin surface. R2 refers to the maximum roughness, and
lowering the R2 value lowers the skin texture. In the study, the cheek skin texture R2 was significantly decreased from 82.5 to 75.5 at week four.
Conclusion MFL is an abbreviation of ‘multi-functionalized lecithin’. By industrialization of whole-cell enzyme technology, Nikkol Lecinol MFL was developed as a product with high naturality and sustainability. This ingredient can do multiple tasks to improve the skin barrier. It targets multiple skin-barrier related genes
63
vs. initial value
vs. placebo in data of ∆4w-0w
++ ++ ++
ns
+ +
++: significantly improve; +: has tendency to improve; ns: no significant difference
and promotes protein and lipid production of skin barrier related components. It can provide multiple skin benefits: improves hydration, restores barrier function, smooths out rough skin, shrinks visible pores, reduces redness and ultimately resolves sensitive skin signs. The lysolecithin ingredient, therefore,
exhibits total support for skin barrier formation, and is a highly useful functional ingredient.
PC
References 1. Farage MA. The Prevalence of Sensitive Skin. Front. Med. (Lausanne). 2019; 6:98
2. Lin B, Tao Y. Whole-cell biocatalysts by design. Microbial Cell Factories. 2017;16(1)
3. Lefèvre-Utile A, Braun C, Haftek M, Aubin F. Five Functional Aspects of the Epidermal Barrier. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2021; 22(21):11676
4. Misery L, Ständer S, Szepietowski JC, et al. Definition of Sensitive Skin: An Expert Position Paper from the Special Interest Group on Sensitive Skin of the International Forum for the Study of Itch. Acta. Derm. Venereol. 2017;97(1):4-6
5. Muizzuddin N, Marenus KD, Maes DH. Factors defining sensitive skin and its treatment. American Journal of Contact Dermatitis. 1998; 9(3):170-175.
6. Lyu J, Diao Q, Wang S, Yu Y, Jiang Y. Study on screening and evaluation methods of cosmetics for people with facial sensitive skin. Medicine. 2022;101(31)
7. Zhang Y, Jin Y, Humbert P et al. An herbal cream reduces erythema of sensitive skin. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2021; 20: 792–797
8. Kim SH, Kim JH, Lee SJ, Jung MS, Jeong DH, Lee KH. Minimally invasive skin sampling and transcriptome analysis using microneedles for skin type biomarker research. Skin Res. Technol. 2022; 28: 322–335
9. Roh M, Han M, Kim D, Chung K. Sebum output as a factor contributing to the size of facial pores. Br. J. Dermatol. 2006 Nov; 155(5):890-4
10. Miyamoto K, Munakata Y, Yan X, Tsuji G, Furue M. Enhanced Fluctuations in Facial Pore Size, Redness, and TEWL Caused by Mask Usage Are Normalized by the Application of a Moisturizer. J. Clin. Med. 2022, 11, 2121.
11. Egawa M et al. Effect of exposure of human skin to a dry environment. Skin Research and Technology. 2002; 8(4), pp. 212–218
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