128 SKIN BRIGHTENING
120 115 110 105 100
2h
1.0% ■ 0.5% ■ Control ■ ***
**
10nM ■ 5nM ■ Control ■ ***
120 115 110 105 100
4h 8h 24h Time after sample addition 2h 4h *** *** *** *** 8h Time after sample addition 24h
120 115 110 105 100
2h 4h
10nM ■ 5nM ■ Control ■
*** ***
*** ***
8h 24h Time after sample addition
Figure 4: Autophagy activation effect of juniper berry extract, anthricin, and yatein. Concentration-dependent and time-dependent autophagy activation effects of juniper berry extract (left), anthricin (centre), and yatein (right) in HEK293T cells are shown assuming the steady state activation being 100% (n=4, mean±SEM, ***p<0.001, **p<0.01 vs. control by Dunnett's test in each time point)
and reduction of age spots in human skin. An emulsion containing 1% juniper berry
extract, or a placebo emulsion was applied to the half of the face of eight healthy men and women twice a day for four weeks. Then, (1) internal reflected light was measured using TransluDermTM
, (2) the L*a*b* value in
the cheek area was measured using a colour chromatometer, and (3) the number of age spots in the cheek area was measured using VISIA® (Figure 5). In a test using TransluDermTM
, white LED
comes into contact with the skin and internal reflected light is detected using multiple detectors located in a straight line from the light source. The more the internal reflected light, the farther from the source light is detected. In the juniper berry extract group, the
A
120 110 100 90
C
102.5 100 97.5 95
Juniper berry extract (1.0%) ■ Placebo ■ * Week 0 Week 4 Juniper berry extract (1.0%) ■ Placebo ■
120 110 100 90
D
*** ***
Week 0 Week 4
110 100 90 80
distance from the light source of detectors that reacted to the internal reflected light was significantly larger at Week 4 than Week 0. This result indicates that application of juniper berry extract creates a skin condition with more internally reflected light. Next, skin lightness L-value, skin redness
a-value, and yellowness b-value were measured using a colour chromatometer. Significant improvement of L-value was observed after the test in the juniper berry extract group. There was no significant difference in a-value before and after the test in the juniper berry extract group or the placebo group (data not shown). Meanwhile, significant decrease of b-value
was observed after the test in both juniper berry extract group and placebo group. There was a tendency that b-value reduced even more in the
B Juniper berry extract (1.0%) ■ Placebo ■
juniper berry extract group than in the placebo group. This result indicates that application of juniper berry extract leaves skin lighter and less yellowish. Lipofuscin accumulation is a known cause
of age spots that appear on aged skin. We evaluated the number of surface spots in the cheek area using VISIA®. In the juniper berry extract group, the number of age spots in the cheek area significantly reduced at Week 4 compared to Week 0. The result indicates that application of juniper berry extract not only lightens the skin tone but also decreases age spots on the skin.
Conclusion This report introduces juniper berry extract as a new ingredient of natural origin that activates proteasome and autophagy serving as cleaning systems in cells, reduces lipofuscin, and leaves the skin bright and clear with less age spots. For skin clarity, not only lipofuscin but
* Week 0 Week 4 Juniper berry extract (1.0%) ■ Placebo ■
also various acquired factors such as glycated products (AGEs), gaps between epidermal cells, slight unevenness on skin surface, shape of pores, and moisture content are involved. Combination of care for these factors is expected to achieve borderless brightness that does not depend on natural skin colour. We would be delighted if JuniperBright, which is the juniper berry extract we developed, would contribute to the development of products that help to achieve beautiful skin.
References 1. Sakamoto K et al. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2023; in press: 45(5):655-671
*** Week 0 Week 4
Figure 5: Beauty effect of juniper berry extract on human skin. A: The graph shows changes in the distance where internal reflected light in the cheek area is detected using TransluDermTM
before and
after the test in relative values when the value at Week 0 of each group is set to 100%. B, C: The graphs show changes in the L-value and b-value, respectively, in the cheek area measured using a colour chromatometer before and after the test in relative values when the value at Week 0 of each group is set to 100%. D: The graph shows changes in the number of surface spots in the cheek area measured using VISIA® before and after the test in relative values when the value at Week 0 of each group is set to 100%. (n=8, mean±SEM, ***p<0.001, *p<0.05 paired t-test)
PERSONAL CARE April 2024
2. Ikeda H et al. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021;43:144–5 3. Matsubara A. Skin Res Technol. 2012;18:29–35 4. Dolman CL et al. Adv Cell Neurobiol. 1989;2:205–47
5. Jung Tet
al.Methods Mol Biol. 2010;594:173–93 6. Jung T et al. Mol Aspects Med. 2009;30: 191–296
7. Li Y et al. Li S, Wu H. Cell. 2022;11(5):851 8. Takeda K et al. Proc Natl Aad Sci USA. 2010;107(8):3540–5
9. Terman A et al. Ann N Y Acad Sci. 2002;973:309–12
10. Kim SH et
al.Pharmacol Rep. 2017;69(5):878–84
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PC
b value (%)
Superfacial distance (%)
Autophagy activity (%)
Number of spots (%)
L value (%)
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