BIOSURFACTANTS Sensitivity after 48 hours
70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
HoliSurf LF HoliSurf HF
Decyl Octyl Glycosides
C10-16 Alkyl Glycosides
Ultra mild Non-irritating
147
C9-11 Alcohol
Lauryl Ether Ethoxylate (6EO) Sulfate (SLES)
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB)
Figure 2: Showing the % of viable skin cells after 48 hours in contact with 0.3% active surfactant solutions. Using XCellR8’s XtraMild test method As a result of these experiences, 37% of
properties that make them suitable for facial cleansers, body washes, and shampoos. Their ability to reduce surface tension and
form stable foams contributes to effective cleaning and pleasing sensorials.
Emulsification Sophorolipids are highly effective in forming stable emulsions. This property makes them valuable in personal care where they are able to slot into emulsification systems while delivering their beneficial properties to skin and hair.
Low critical micelle concentration Increased Efficiency: Surfactants with low critical micelle concentration (CMC) values are effective at lower concentrations, meaning that even at low amounts, they can form micelles and exhibit their surface-active properties. This efficiency is advantageous for various
applications, as it allows for the use of smaller quantities to achieve the desired effects.
Biodegradability Sophorolipids are readily biodegradable. They can be broken down in the environment by microorganisms into harmless byproducts giving them extremely low environmental toxicity. This characteristic contrasts with
many synthetic surfactants derived from petrochemicals, which can persist in the environment and can have adverse ecological effects due to their persistence and the toxic by-products formed as they break down.
Assessing the mildness of Holiferm sophorolipids versus comparable surfactants At an in-use concentration of 0.3% active HoliSurf LF & HoliSurf HF are measured as non-irritants as shown in Figure 2. HoliSurf HF & HoliSurf LF refer to Holiferm’s personal care grade sophorolipid products. These results show a stark contrast between
the mildness of sophorolipids on skin and the damaging effects of common materials such
www.personalcaremagazine.com Figure 3: Infographic from a European consumer study April 2024 PERSONAL CARE
as sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES), and sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS). The results were produced by application
of products to a human skin surface model, measurements were taken after 48 hours to determine any possible damage to the skin cells. The y-axis shows the percentage of viable
skin cells remaining after the test. Lauryl ether sulphate (SLES), C10-16 alkyl glycosides (C10-16 APG), C9-11 6EO alcohol ethoxylate and sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) all showed a reduction in the number of viable skin cells by ≥90% after 48 hours.
This data is concerning as these are
commonly used materials in home and personal care products. Sophorolipids however showed a reduction of <50% in the number of viable skin cells after 48 hours. A significant improvement showing that sophorolipids are not damaging to your skin.
Kinder to skin’ surfactant A 2014 study of 12,377 individuals in Europe found that 51.7% of people had experienced a skin reaction that lasted more than three days at some point in their life.5
Some 19.3% of people
reported having a reaction within the last month and 31.8% within the previous year (Figure 3).
people avoided leave-on skincare products and 17.7% of people avoided rinse-off or other household products. These results show society has found out for itself that these products can be damaging, and people are willing to take action to avoid the issues highlighted. The results also show that there is a need in
the market for multi-functional surfactants that are ‘kinder to skin’. The products that come into contact with our skin should not cause these issues. Market trends including sustainability,
natural materials, biodegradability, sulphate- free, non-GMO & mild on skin show how much the population cares about their health and the environment. Industry is still lagging behind these consumer demands as many products that fulfil these criteria are much more expensive. Many home and personal care products still
contain materials that are damaging to our skin and the environment. Chemical manufacturers still rely on the archaic & damaging supply chains of petrochemicals and tropical oils rather than developing new products based on local raw materials and sustainable processes. The chemical industry has a responsibility
A 2014 study of 12,377 individuals in Europe found that:
had experienced a skin reaction that lasted >3 days at some point in their life
reported having a reaction within the past month
reported having a reaction within the past year
avoided daily skincare products as a result of these experience
% cell viability
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