PRESERVATIVES
Harnessing natural preservation with lichen
Susan Paris – Active Micro Technologies
Cosmetic and personal care products serve as an ideal medium for microbial growth. Formulators must develop products that are resistant to microbial contamination for safety and regulatory compliance. Ways in which microbes may be introduced: raw materials can be a source of bioburden, unsanitized machinery, packaging contamination, consumer use, etc. According to the US Food and Drug
Administration, ‘cosmetics may not be sterile, however, they must not be contaminated with microorganisms which may be pathogenic, and the density of non-pathogenic microorganisms should be low. In addition, cosmetics should remain in this condition when used by consumers’. Regulations are different all over the world, but some similarities can be recognized. Establishing negative and positive lists for the regulation of substances in cosmetics (lists for forbidden ingredients and restricted ingredients) is a similar strategy. Over the last few years, there has been
a growing fascination among consumers for natural and clean formulations, which promise benefits for the skin, but also the planet. However, consumers will not compromise on functionality, efficacy, or sensory appeal, all of which can pose challenges for formulators to meet expectations. The preservatives market is estimated to
grow because of the demand for upgrading cosmetic products’ quality. The trend toward natural cosmetic products and the expansion of the preservative industry are being mainly driven by customer demand for these products and rising levels of beauty consciousness. Many synthetic preservatives are no longer
widely used. Because consumers are looking for alternatives to synthetic preservatives, natural antimicrobial solutions have continued to develop. Additionally, the increased demand for
natural cosmetics has made preservation an essential step in the formulation process, with an emphasis on both quality and usefulness. Preservation is no longer considered to be the last step in the formulation process, but rather a need that may meet several purposes and benefit formulas in terms of beauty attributes. The result has been a growing demand
for proactive, innovative, and alternative solutions to synthetic preservatives. Alternative antimicrobial solutions utilize the power of
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natural compounds, combining cosmetic functionality with antimicrobial activity. Alternative preservation provides
comparable functionality or benefits to their chemically derived counterparts, but by definition must offer benefits other than antimicrobial activity. This offers a unique origin story or manufacturing technology that the brand may use to differentiate itself in the marketplace. If natural preservatives are predicted to
dominate the market, how can a beauty brand company differentiate itself in such a crowded space? What is your story?
Algae & fungi symbiosis About 20,000 different species of lichen compose the diverse lichen flora on our planet. Lichen is not an animal or a plant. Lichens are systems of cooperative organisms and an excellent example of natural symbiosis
TABLE 1: INHIBITION ACTIVITY DATA Organism (ATCC#)
E.coli #8739
S. aureus #6538
P. aeruginosa #9027 C. albicans #10231
A. brasiliensis #16404
MIC (%) 0.25
0.12 0.25 0.12 0.12
because, despite appearing to be one cohesive entity, they are actually two different species cohabiting the same space. Essentially, a fungus and either a green
alga or a cyanobacterium are partners in this symbiotic connection. Each component of the lichen depends on the others for survival. It is impossible for the fungus to manufacture food on its own. Its purpose is to shape the lichen’s structure and form. The algal component’s job is to take in solar energy and use photosynthesis to turn it into food for both species. Lichens range in size from less than one
millimetre to over two metres from tree branches, and their rate of growth ranges from barely perceptible to several millimetres annually. Worldwide, lichens can be found in a range
of environmental contexts. They are fascinating because of their ability to thrive in harsh environments; they are one of the most vital elements of the vegetation in boreal forests and subarctic ecosystems, but they can also grow in hot deserts, on the rocks of alpine peaks, or on rocky coasts swept by the waves.
Secondary metabolites found in lichens As an adaptation for life in tough environments, the substances that lichens produce to survive
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