SKIN CARE
Empowering natural skin barrier function
Julie Leignadier, Anne Zibi Elbaz, Joan Attia – Lucas Meyer Cosmetics ABSTRACT
The skin is its own best ally. It acts permanently as a protective barrier against external aggressors. However, these repeated attacks can damage it, resulting in a loss of efficacy in its barrier function, leading to skin water loss (dehydration), and an increase in skin permeability. Over time, this damage contributes to premature skin ageing with visible signs such as the appearance of wrinkles, skin roughness and a decrease in skin tonicity. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, in collaboration
The pandemic inspired a collective reassessment of priorities, transcending various aspects of life, and beauty was no exception to this transformative trend. This shift initially resulted in simplified routines, evolving into a fascination with holistic beauty. The current heightened interest in the skin
barrier is part of a continuum where health, well-being, and beauty intertwine. The spotlight is on prevention rather than a cure, emphasizing the strengthening of the skin’s inherent defenses for enduring beauty. This global trend resonates across individuals of all age groups. A healthy outermost skin layer signifies
an effective skin barrier function, actively preventing the intrusion of microorganisms, chemicals, and allergens, while regulating water balance. Conversely, a compromised skin barrier allows external threats to penetrate, resulting in increased water loss and manifestations such as dryness, roughness, and dullness. This vulnerability may extend to irritation and inflammation, contributing to premature ageing, characterized by wrinkles, skin roughness, and diminished skin tonicity. One of the scientific approaches to fortify
the skin’s outermost layer and therefore preventing the skin from premature ageing is to improve the cornification process. The cornified envelope (CE), a specialized structure found in
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the skin’s outermost layer, the stratum corneum (SC), plays a central role in the skin’s barrier function.
Late Cornified Envelope proteins are key elements in the cornification process During the differentiation process of keratinocytes into corneocytes, the membrane of the keratinocytes gradually disappears to make way for the CE. This robust structure, characterized by its thickness, is composed of proteins and lipids that are covalently reticulated around the plasma membrane of differentiated keratinocytes. Within this multiprotein assembly, a distinct
internal skeleton is formed by proteins, while lipids envelop the exterior. The intricate bonding process primarily relies on the enzymatic activity of transglutaminases (TGM), calcium-dependent enzymes that facilitate the cross-linking of proteins. Through catalyzing the formation of
isopeptide bonds, these enzymes contribute to the development of covalent protein bonds, resulting in the creation of a highly rigid and insoluble protein scaffold known as the protein envelope. This scaffold, in turn, undergoes cross-
linking with extracellular lipids, culminating in
with the Infinity Institute in France, discovered a new protein: LCE6A. LCE6A, part of the ‘Late Cornified Envelope’ protein family, is known to be essential for the mechanical resistance of the corneocytes in the stratum corneum. By mimicking the LCE6A protein activity, CorneopeptylTM strengthens the corneocyte envelope resulting in a more resilient epidermal barrier with improved skin barrier function demonstrating a reduction of skin permeability and water loss. Substantiated with AI, rebuilding skin barrier consequently future-proofs the skin by reducing the appearance of ageing signs like wrinkles, decreasing skin roughness, and increasing skin tonicity.
the formation of the cornified lipid envelope.1 Among the proteins involved in this complex assembly are involucrin, loricrin, filaggrin, small proline-rich (SPRR) proteins, and Late Cornified Envelope (LCE) proteins.2 The deficiency in the expression of genes
coding for these proteins has been established as closely associated with skin disorders, including psoriasis and atopic dermatitis.3
LCE proteins, in
particular, emerge as pivotal constituents of the CE, playing a crucial role in barrier function and being implicated in those skin disorders.4
A newly discovered protein involved in the cornification process Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, in collaboration with a team specialized in epidermal barrier and keratinocyte differentiation from the Infinity Institute in France, has discovered a new protein: LCE6A. LCE6A, part of the LCE protein family, is specifically expressed by differentiated
April 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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