132 SKIN CLEANSING Removal of mascara soil comparable to SLES and Cocamidopropyl Betaine
220 200 180 160 140 120 100
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (15%)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (10%)
+ NatraFusion SL HA (5%)
15% Active Surfactant Solutions
Synergistic, cleaning-boosting performance with amphoteric surfactants
Figure 1: Cleansing performance of the sophorolipid biosurfactant compared to conventional surfactant benchmarks Biotechnology is at the frontier of cosmetic
transformation of the beauty industry in recent years, with many brands looking to replace ingredients that are traditionally derived from petrochemical sources, with natural and ‘greener’ or ‘cleaner’ alternatives. This switch has stemmed from the over-
consumption of fossil fuels, with bio-based ingredients offering the opportunity to allow for carbon saving and reduced carbon emissions. As a result of consumers increased
awareness of the importance of sustainable practices, they are also increasingly aware of the fact that overconsumption has placed significant strain on natural resources and the planet's depleting biodiversity. An exponential increase in the demand for
natural and plant-derived ingredients, not only for the benefit of the beauty industry, places a huge strain on agricultural practices, with concerns over the impact of large-scale farming and less land available for food production. All of which has sparked an interest in
replicating ingredients from alternative sources. Yet how can cosmetic ingredients be sustainably harvested to keep up with demand, with minimal impact on the planet?
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
ingredient innovation and presents a novel manufacturing route to meet consumer and market demands to transform the surfactant landscape, specifically in the form of biosurfactants. This novel route to manufacture has the
potential to lead the way in conscious beauty, reducing reliance on natural resources while delivering high performance solutions that consumers have come to expect, that are kinder to both the skin and the environment.
Microbial biosurfactants – introducing NatraFusion™ SL HA Microbial biosurfactants represent the next generation of surfactant ingredients designed to meet the increasing demands of the personal care market. Of these, sophorolipids are a class of glycolipid produced by fermentation. NatraFusion™ SL HA is a new sophorolipid
biosurfactant produced via biotechnology to offer an alternative to traditional surfactant chemistries used in personal care. Hereafter described as the sophorolipid biosurfactant, it
Minimal in vitro zein protein solubilisation
offers a viable solution to address the market shift towards hi-tech, biotechnology derived ingredients that fuse bio-based sourcing with advances in science to deliver high performance. The sophorolipid biosurfactant is perfect
for cleansing applications as an ultra-mild biosurfactant with highly effective cleansing properties. When used as a co-surfactant, the sophorolipid biosurfactant offers synergistic mildness and cleansing boosting capabilities, with no detrimental impact upon foam production. This enables the creation of high-
performance facial cleansers that meet the growing needs of consumers, particularly around the protection of skin health and delivering viable solutions for those with sensitive skin types, without compromising on performance.
Synergistic, cleansing-boosting performance The cleansing performance of the sophorolipid biosurfactant in the removal of foundation and mascara has been analysed and compared to a
Can be combined with harsh anionics to significantly improve mildness
10% active SLES + NatraFusion SL HA
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
0 15% Active Surfactant Solutions
Figure 2: In vitro zein protein solubilisation of the sophorolipid biosurfactant compared to conventional surfactant benchmarks
PERSONAL CARE April 2024 0.2 0.5 1 3 Increasing level of NatraFusion SL HA
Figure 3: Mildness boosting effect of the sophorolipid biosurfactant when combined with anionic surfactants such as SLES
www.personalcaremagazine.com 5 10
Zein Solubilisation (%) Grey Scale Reading
Zein Solubilisation (%)
SLES
Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate Cocamidopropyl Betaine Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Cocoamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate Decyl Glucoside Lauryl Glucoside
NatraFusion SL HA
Blank Water
PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
NatraFusion SL HA Cocamidopropyl Betaine SLES
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate Decyl Glucoside
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