MULTIFUNCTIONALS 40% 23% increase* 30% 4% 3% increase* increase* 20% 2% 72% 47% 10% 1% 0% 1% Glycerin 1% Propylene
Glycol Caprylate + 1% Glycerin
Figure 5: 1% Propylene Glycol Caprylate-skin hydration data. % Change in skin hydration data measured at 15 minutes compared to T0 baseline measurement. Skin measurements carried out using a Corneometer, N=8
digestion, producing vitamins, and supporting our immune system.6 Each square centimetre of skin contains
approximately one million microorganisms that have a key role in preventing the growth of unhealthy pathogens we encounter. Exposure to cosmetic and detergent products daily can alter our microbiome and, consequently, our protection against those pathogens. Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis)
plays an important role in the maintenance of healthy skin and is considered a ‘good bacteria’. Arxada was able to demonstrate propylene
glycol caprylate can enhance the skin’s good bacteria and maintains microbiome balance. Arxada tested at 0.5% propylene glycol caprylate the survival of S. epidermidis over four hours, whereas equivalent levels of ethylhexylglycerin (EHG) and caprylyl glycol (CapG) cause the death of S. epidermidis (Figure 8).
1E+07 1E+06 1E+05 1E+04 1E+03 1E+02 1E+01 1E+00
Control
Propylene Glycol Caprylate 0.5%
0%
1% Propylene Glycol
Caprylate
Figure 6: 1% Propylene Glycol Caprylate-skin hydration data. % Change in skin hydration data measured at 4 hours compared to T0 baseline measurement. Skin measurements carried out using a Corneometer, N=7
TABLE 4: STABILITY OF EMULSIONS CONTAINING 1% MULTIFUNCTIONAL INGREDIENT OVER A 7 DAY PERIOD, AT TWO DIFFERENT STORAGE TEMPERATURES
Multifunction (1%)
Propylene Glycol Caprylate
Day 7 @ 25°C Day 7 @ 50°C
Caprylyl Glycol ✘ Ethylhexylglycerin ✘
✔ ✔ ✘ ✘
Emulsification Propylene glycol caprylate can complement the primary surfactant in a personal care formulation to enhance the stability of natural and essential oils. Emulsions containing 0.1% sunflower oil, 5% Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate and 1% multifunctional ingredient were used for the
1% EHG 1% CapG
90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
60% increase*
145
1% Glycerin
1% Propylene
Glycol Caprylate + 1% Glycerin
Figure 7: 1% Propylene Glycol Caprylate- sensory panel study data, N=6
*Percentage increase relative to indicated sample results. ** % Agreement based on no. responses rating moderately agree or higher the attribute of 'non-sticky'
assessment of formulation stability. 1% propylene glycol caprylate enhanced
stability and formation of microemulsions at room temperature (25°C) and elevated temperature (50°C) after seven days (Table 4). However, emulsion breakdown was observed with the other multifunctional ingredients tested.
Conclusion Arxada have demonstrated propylene glycol caprylate’s ability to boost milder types of preservatives: organic acids, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol. Allowing for increased efficacy, broad-spectrum activity and greater confidence when formulating with less robust preservation systems. Through in vivo and in vitro studies, Arxada
>1 log10 drop (90%)
have been able to demonstrate propylene glycol caprylate’s mildness compared to other typically used multifunctional ingredients with far more attractive formulation and functional benefits, providing an all-round enhanced experience and the ability to formulate on trend products for evermore savvy end-users. Propylene glycol caprylate is a truly
>4 log10 drop (99.99%)
multifunctional ingredient with a great deal of potential and the ability to be a disruptor within the beauty and personal care space.
PC
References 1. How ‘multitasking’ preservatives might help to make cosmetics safer | Environmental Working Group (
ewg.org)
2. COSING_Annex V_v2.pdf (
europa.eu) 3. European Commission ingredient propylene glycol caprylate
4. Personal Care Products Council. Infobase: Propylene glycol caprylate
EHG 0.5% CapG 0.5%
Figure 8: 0.5% Propylene Glycol Caprylate - Skin microbiome data. Graph showing microoraganism recovery after four hours
www.personalcaremagazine.com
5. Personal Care Products Council. Microbiology Guidelines. 2021
6. Byrd A, Belkaid Y, Segre J. The human skin microbiome. Nat. Rev. Microbiol. 16, 143–155. 2018
April 2024 PERSONAL CARE
Microorganism recovery (CFU per ml)
Mean change in skin hydration from T0
Mean change in skin hydration from T0
% Agreement **
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