SKIN CLEANSING
Sophorolipid for creating mild facial cleansers
Danielle Dobson, Hannah Critchley, Kathryn Knight - Croda
A longstanding staple in skin care routines, the humble facial cleanser has often been seen as the most basic step in cleansing regimens and overlooked by consumers as a step that can help to deliver benefits to the skin. This relates to the earliest of skin care
routines, when cleansing was established as a fundamental basic in hygiene to help prevent illness or disease. From the first wrapped bar soap launched in England in 1884,1
the soap
market continued to expand and during early 20th century the development of synthetic detergents came as a major breakthrough.2 Surface active ingredients, including
synthetic detergents, emulsifiers, surfactants and soaps, continue to form the basis of many present-day skin-cleansing products. The facial cleanser has come a long way
since then, with an explosion in the number and type of formats available. The liquid facial cleanser was introduced in the 1990s as a more convenient alternative to solid bars and formats have continued to evolve, from creams and gels to include more novel, transformative textures such as oils, balms and waters. This has been fuelled by a shift in consumer
perception surrounding cleansing; no longer just as a way of maintaining personal hygiene, but as a moment to relax and enjoy, as a means of self-care and indulgence. With the global facial cleanser market forecast to reach $8.27bn by 2030,3
formulators
face an interesting challenge in delivering experiential application and effective cleansing whilst maintaining a healthy skin appearance.
The evolution of surfactant ingredients The crucial ingredient in facial cleansers, surfactants typically act as detergents though can offer a wide range of benefits in formulation, dependant on their charge. Anionic surfactants tend to offer better cleansing properties due to their negative charge. This negative charge, which resides on the
hydrophilic portion of the surfactant, makes it available for readily interacting and lifting particulate based soils like make-up. The most popular anionic surfactants, and probably the most recognisable by consumers, are sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). However, the cleansing efficacy of SLS
and SLES means they are not only capable of removing soils such as make-up but can also
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strip the skin of its natural oils. This can be too harsh for some skin types and can lead to irritation, driving demand for sulfate-free offerings in the personal care market. Consumers are increasingly aware of the
importance of the skin barrier and are seeking solutions that will not ‘strip’ the skin or lead to irritation, particularly for those with sensitive skin types. In a survey by PubMed, 71% of survey respondents from 18 countries identified as having sensitive skin.4
Advances in surfactant technology A combination of different chemistries are often combined to achieve milder formulations that match consumer expectations for effective cleansing and luxurious foam. Surfactant classes such as sarcosinates,
taurates, betaines and sultaines have developed as popular alternatives that are often used in various combinations to tailor the performance of a formulation, offering an alternative to sulfate-based systems like SLS or SLES. Increased demand for alternative ingredients
to surfactant classes traditionally derived from petrochemical sources has resulted in a shift towards bio-based ingredients. Due to their wide variety of uses, surfactants are the most widely used group of chemical substances in daily life. By improving their sustainability
credentials, the overall impact of personal care products can be dramatically improved. Sustainability is at the forefront of many
consumers’ minds, with an ever-growing awareness of the impact they have on the planet. A report from WGSN revealed that sustainability accounts for around 37% of conversations on social media surrounding the topic of clean beauty in skin care,5 demonstrating an appetite from consumers to learn more and resulting in the evolution of ‘clean’ beauty to ‘conscious’ beauty. Consumers are continually plagued with headlines about the climate crisis, which has become an unavoidable truth. As a result, consumers are becoming more aware of their ecological footprint and the steps that they can take to improve their lifestyle choices when it comes to sustainability. A report by Nielsen revealed 73% of global
consumers say that they would change their consumption habits to reduce their impact on the environment.6 This increased consumer awareness
combined with an ever-evolving regulatory landscape that impacts the sourcing, design and manufacture of cosmetic products is changing what sustainability means for the beauty industry. Naturally derived raw materials have
played an instrumental role in the sustainable April 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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