96 NATURALS Saturated Fat Monounsaturated Fat Polyunsaturated Fat Argan Oil
Sweet Almond Oil Sunflower Oil (High Oleic) Safflower Oil (High Oleic) Olive Oil
14%
9% 8%
9% 16% 45% 62% 83% 85% 79% 41% 29% 9% 6% 5% 0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100% Table 1: Fatty acid profiles compared.
be detrimental to the stability of the oil. This similar function occurs when they are applied to skin. These different phytochemicals are useful to the body and can become integral to the lipid envelop of the stratum corneum, most superficial in the epidermis. Beta-sitosterol is found at relatively prominent levels in sweet almond oil compared to sunflower oil or coconut oil. This phytosterol has similar functionality to cholesterol in skin, which adds fluidity and flexibility.
Studies have also been published that link beta-sitosterol to angiogenesis, or the creation of new blood vessels.2
It is being
researched for isolation and inclusion in treatments currently. The implications of this are significant as consumers begin to rediscover plant-based solutions that help the skin appear more youthful. Blue Diamond continues to push the boundaries of how useful this humble vegetable oil may be by expanding the research and body of knowledge regarding not only sweet almond oil, but the use of its constituents. We are working to learn more about the unique benefits this oil has for skin health and appearance.
Testing assures purity. Purity assures efficacy
All of these benefits to using 100 per cent pure sweet almond oil, from the skin-feel to the potential health benefits have an important precondition, however. One must use pure sweet almond oil in order to enjoy its benefits. When purchasing sweet almond oil, it is quite possible that it is segmented into three groups. Pure sweet almond oil (Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet Almond) oil) as proven by the presence of phytosterol testing and a complete fatty acid distribution included in the specification. Often there is a “cosmetic grade” reference which tends to be a blend of sweet almond oil and other oils, its INCI: Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet Almond)
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
oil, Olus (Vegetable) Oil and Tocopherol. In some instances, for an oil being marketed as pure sweet almond oil, testing by an outside laboratory indicated the product did not meet specifications for key indicators of purity (like the specific ratio and presence of sterols or a complete fatty acid profile). According to international standards,
pure sweet almond oil will have less than 0.2 per cent behenic acid (C22:0). An analytical result of greater than 0.2 per cent is associated with cross contamination or blending. To ensure that a complete fatty acid profile is present, including behenic acid is a simple and straightforward method to confirm purity.
One challenge that blends need to
address is the unique fatty acid profile that is present in sweet almond oil – recall it has that favourable ratio of monounsaturated fatty acids and polyunsaturated fatty acids. The most common way to accomplish this is to blend a high oleic va rietal with a low oleic varietal of (usually) sunflower oil. This way, when one methylated the fatty acids for gas chromatographic analysis, the proportions appeared the same (except of course on the longer chains which are much more prevalent in sunflower oil versus sweet almond oil). Blends represent several glycerol-tri- oleate molecules with a minority proportion of glycerol-tri-linoleate molecules. These two molecules lack the ‘best-of-both worlds’ benefits of the glycerol-di-oleate- mono-linoleate molecule present in authentic pure sweet almond oil. As a result, the consumer loses the skin-feel benefits and phytosterol presence. At Blue Diamond, it is our mission to educate the marketplace and help formulators, marketers, and buyers understand the value of working with 100 per cent pure sweet almond oil. In addition, we are working to shed new light on this historic product which consumers have grown to enjoy seeing in their products.
Educated consumers want authenticity
The good news is that consumers are learning more and more about products. There is a growing trend among consumers that demonstrates what they put on their body is as important as what they put in their bodies. Consumers are becoming more educated about ingredients and want simpler, easier to understand ingredients. Generating value for the consumers is paramount in personal care, and Blue Diamond is committed to bringing the purity and efficacy of 100 per cent pure sweet almond oil sourced directly from the growers to the marketplace.
The endless possibilities of the almond Through all the progress and protocols, one thing that continues to persist is the almond. The almond has come on a great journey from central Asia and is now a symbol of California agriculture. For more than a hundred years, Blue Diamond has been an almond growers’ cooperative whose business is California almonds. The end product reflects the expertise of Blue Diamond’s member-growers who have worked the rich soils of central and northern California for generations. At Blue Diamond Growers there is a drive to innovate and push the essence of the almond into creative and high value applications. This single, delicious nut has nearly endless possibilities. The company uses its deep expertise, innovative processes and sophisticated technology to find the perfect solutions for a variety of applications. For the first time, Blue Diamond is offering 100% Pure Sweet Almond Oil to the health and beauty care market. When one takes off the almond shell and begins to look closely at the constituents which materialise when physically separating a raw almond, greater value becomes apparent. This value is not only in the form of higher returns for our cooperative growers, but in the synergy of changing the form of delivery. Orally consuming whole almonds offers several benefits for the body. In fact, even the American Heart Association certified whole almonds as a healthy food. Not only do whole almonds boast several nutritional benefits, but the nutrients and beneficial properties of almond oil make it a powerful cosmetic ingredient.
PC
References 1 Guan M, Chen H, Xiong, X. et al. A Study on
Triacylglycerol Composition and the Structure of High-Oleic Rapeseed Oil, Engineering 2 2016; 258-262
2 Moon EJ, Lee YM, Lee OH, et al. A novel angiogenic factor derived from Aloe vera gel: beta-sitosterol, a plant sterol, Angiogenesis 1999; 3(2): 117-123.
April 2018
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