FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS 57 5% BiophilicTM
1.8 1.6 1.4 1.2 1.0 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0
H + Hyaluronic acid Water + Hyaluronic acid * p,0.05 T0 Timm T1h
5% BiophilicTM -1.18* -0.71* -73.8% -0.82* -0.43 Water + Hyaluronic acid Timm T30min T1h
Image analysis of skin on 23 women, Placebo: Water q.s., Sodium Hyaluronate 0.25% Active formula: Water q.s. BiophilicTM
Figure 5: Effect of Biophilic H on skin gloss.
had no immediate effect. Figure 4 (right panel) shows that, at all subsequent measurements, the mixture of the biomimetic emulsifier plus HA was more efficient than HA alone at improving wrinkle appearance over baseline. The amplitude of deep wrinkles was reduced by -3.8% more at T1h and by -4.5% more at T2h in the presence of the mixture versus HA alone. The biomimetic emulsifier is thus a good efficacy booster for active ingredients.
Table 1: Formulation characteristics Characteristics
INCI Name
Textures Skin feel
Appearance Dosage &
% oil phase emulsified pH
Final viscosity
Hot process Cold process
Introduction via oil phase
Lotions to butters Cashmere sensation Light beige pellets 1-6%
Up to 30% (for 4% of Biophilic H) 5-7
Achieved at T 24h Yes (75-8°C) No No
Introduction in aqueous phase Yes (recommended) Oil
UV Filters
Pigments, nacres, glitters Electrolytes Alcohols Glycols
Organic acids Preservatives
Surfactants April 2018
Compatible with all kinds of oil phases Yes (chemical and physical) Yes
<0.5%
Up to 5% Yes Yes
Compatible with most preservatives systems (incompatible with capryhydroxamic acid)
Ethoxylated surfactants disturb lamellar organisation and reduce viscosity
Blurring effect on skin Applying a facial skin care product can sometimes induce a shiny appearance which is not necessarily welcome. As we report here, this can be the case with preparations containing HA. To protect the natural matte balance of the skin, it may be necessary to add to the formulation an ingredient that can counter this effect. With this in mind, the impact of the biomimetic emulsifier on skin gloss was investigated on the panel described above for the
BiophilicTM H
Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and) Palmitic Acid
smoothing effect, within the same split-face protocol. Results were documented by optical measurements. The technique consists of obtaining high resolution photographs of a face seen in three-quarter profile, in cross polarised and non-cross polarised light, in completely reproducible lighting conditions. Cross polarisation allows to take photos without any light reflections (colour only), while parallel polarisation (PP) allows one to take photos with light reflections (colour + light reflection). Then, a gloss map (light reflection only) can be created from these two images. Calculation of the gloss parameters for all volunteers was focused on the cheekbone. Specular gloss (SG) was evaluated on a scale of 0 to 100, 0 representing a perfectly matte surfaces, and 100 a perfectly shiny surface. Final results were expressed in terms of variation of specular gloss (SG) compared to baseline (T0) for each measurements. In Figure 5 (left panel) we can see that, upon application of a gel containing HA alone, skin gloss was immediately increased by +1.6 times compared to baseline. The shiny appearance was maintained throughout the experiment, starting to fade away only at the end (T2h). Addition of the biomimetic emulsifier to the formulation significantly and constantly prevented the HA gel-induced glossy appearance of the skin at all time points. Notably, the natural brightness protective effect of the biomimetic emulsifier was immediate, reducing HA gel-induced shiny appearance by as much as -73.8 % upon application. Figure 5 (right panel) shows a representative gloss map of each half-face of one of the volunteers, as obtained at T0, and at Timm and T1h following application of a gel containing the biomimetic emulsifier plus HA (upper photograph) versus HA alone (lower photograph). Neat prevention of skin gloss was observed at
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE T2h
H + Hyaluronic acid
H 5%, Sodium Hyaluronate 0.25%
Compatibilities
Process
Specular gloss (Gs) Vs T0
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