72 FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS
order to elucidate which genes were differentially expressed after the anti- redness capsule treatment. In this study, 21 genes were significantly stimulated whereas 18 genes were significantly inhibited upon treatment in human keratinocytes.
Immune systems related genes: CXCL14 suggests an immediate role in skin inflammation Immune modulating capabilities were displayed by upregulating CXCL14 gene expression. CXCL14 is a cytokine that exerts attraction towards monocytes, dendritic cells and natural killer cells. These effector cells of the immune system are recruited by CXCL14 in the context of a pro-inflammatory environment. In addition, this peptide has antimicrobial properties, killing bacteria at the earliest stage of infection and playing a unique role in antimicrobial immunity. CXCL14 expression is high in healthy skin and barely detected in skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. The product rebalances the immune system by increasing the expression of CXCL14, thus, boosting the skin´s natural antimicrobial defence.
Skin barrier function related genes As commented before, skin barrier function is essential to maintain a healthy skin, and it is heavily disturbed in atopic skins. Stratum corneum, the outer and more important layer for barrier function, is supported physically and physiologically by basal lamina, a thin layer composed by extracellular matrix (ECM).
Reduction of inflammation markers A broken skin barrier activates the production and release of large amounts of the cytokine interleukin-1α (IL-1α) from keratinocytes. The release of these messengers is a primary event that promotes inflammatory skin conditions. The inhibitory effect on IL1a inflammatory induction of the new capsules and the anti- redness capsules were analysed on human dermal fibroblasts. Fibroblast were treated
Clinical photography and Spectroscopic Analysis for Redness quantification Single-blind
randomized, placebo controlled efficacy test of a serum containing 1.5% Activys®
Capsules 50
Figure 1: Skin penetration: Confocal microscopy of pig-skin section (0h, and 20 h) after topical treatment with Activys. Green areas indicate presence of Activys (stained with FITC BSA).
with all developed formulations for 48 hours. The inflammatory response was induced by interleukin IL-1a. After 24 hours inhibitory effect on PGE2 in culture cell was measured. Results indicate that the anti- redness capsules completely inhibit the effect on PGE2 (*p<0.05) while the new capsules show also anti-inflammatory activity per se. These results indicate that encapsulated actives have powerful anti- inflammatory activity and such is much improved by the extended release.
Restoring functions in a compromised lipid barrier layer and reducing visible signs of redness in atopic-prone skin
The aim was to assess, in standard use conditions, the efficacy and cosmetic acceptability of an anti-redness cream containing 2% anti-redness capsules. A panel of 10 members was used, all women with sensitive, reactive skin, subject to discomfort and diffuse redness and signs of atopy. Single-blind, placebo controlled, the product was applied to one side of the face, twice a day for 28 days. A placebo was applied using the same protocol. Results were measured at day 0 after 4
Total reduction compared to placebo 100
Fast anti-inflammatory effect Fast penetration into epidermis +60%<30min
Excellent diffusion from epidermis to dermis
weeks of treatment using the system VISIA- CA and quantified against placebo. The variables measured were number of red spots and their area.
A common characteristic for redness-
prone skin is an impaired skin barrier that results in an increased trans-epidermal water loss that leaves the skin dry and itchy. Avoiding water loss and keeping skin moisture are critical in reducing further signs of discomfort that may cause further irritation. We investigated whether the topical application of the the anti-redness capsules can reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). After insult and placebo application, skin took around 10 minutes to recover 50% of water loss. However, upon anti-redness capsule at 2% level, skin took 4 minutes to reach the same level of recovery, revealing a skin barrier function improvement of 60%. In vivo results confirmed that the anti-redness capsules stimulate skin barrier repair and, therefore, restoring skin’s natural defence against aggressions.
Conclusion
Skin inflammation is the most commonly found disorder in dermatology and many products are now aimed at treating
Epidermis Dermis
0 0.5 2
Figure 2: Kinetics: Penetration of Activys capsules assessed in pig-skin Results indicates that Activys efficiently penetrate into skin layers after topical application.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE 6 Time (h) 16 20
Figure 3: Activys capsule Anti-inflammatory activity per se. Clinical Photography and Spectroscopic Analysis for Redness quantification after Activys application in a serum at 1%.
April 2018
Concentration of capsules (%)
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164 |
Page 165 |
Page 166 |
Page 167 |
Page 168 |
Page 169 |
Page 170 |
Page 171 |
Page 172 |
Page 173 |
Page 174 |
Page 175 |
Page 176 |
Page 177 |
Page 178 |
Page 179 |
Page 180 |
Page 181 |
Page 182 |
Page 183 |
Page 184
