LIFESTYLE COSMETICS 43
can have millions of followers on their social media platforms, earning them the title of ‘influencers’. The skill and flare of these, often self-taught influencers, means global brands are now revelling in the benefit of using influencers to endorse their goods.
Instagram, a platform that is popular with influencers and consumers alike, has recently been flooded with ‘Glow Up’ pictures where users will post collages from their teenage years, combined with current selfies where they are wearing full glam makeup looks. This allows followers to see the transition from times where influencers were more supressed and less able to express themselves through colour cosmetics or fashion.
Current market situation Beauty is for everyone, regardless of gender, sex and race. Formulating inclusively is beneficial for all, enabling consumers to purchase more comfortably and confidently without feeling isolated. It is going to take a much bigger social shift before we see ‘The Beauty Boys’ walking around our local supermarkets, however, the need to continue supporting and accommodating the movement of gender fluidity into mainstream society continues to be an increasing consumer demand. As gender fluid consumers are now finding a platform to express themselves within the beauty community, the level of expectation has grown for brands to become more inclusive and innovative. An example of this is ‘Fenty Beauty’. Pop singer Rhianna’s start-up makeup brand, when first launched, released a foundation with 40 different shades. Rhianna ‘saw a void in the market for a product that performed across all skin types and tones’. Brands such as this have led beauty influencers to demand increasing levels of inclusivity, spanning gender fluidity as well as multiculturalism.
It is still common to walk into stores and see a very segregated approach to personal care. For example, male specific moisturisers and cleansers, although increasingly common, are stereotypically masculine in terms of their packaging and claims. In colour cosmetics, however, less than 1% of makeup launches in the last year featured a male claim (Mintel 2017). This is because historically colour cosmetics brands have never segmented by gender, making it easier for them to accommodate an increasingly gender fluid market. From a marketing perspective, it appears that colour cosmetic brands are making a conscious effort to be inclusive, marketing their products to everyone. Many cosmetic and indie brands are now representing females, males and everyone in between in their recent marketing campaigns. One notable campaign came
April 2018
from Illamasqua for Christmas 2017. Their strapline was ‘MERRY XMAS: Celebrate Without Chromosomes’ and their campaign featured models from a range of gender identities. Brands, such as Illamasqua, have seen an increasing need to embrace social change and articulate this through their formulations.
A new sparkle To drive deeper penetration into the colour cosmetics sector, we are delighted to announce the imminent launch of our exciting new special effects pigment range. Offering four unique pigment series, the Moonshine™ Effect Pigments showcase quality borosilicate-based effect pigments to give cosmetic formulation the unique and innovative effects desired by the industry. These effects include exceptional intensity and shine at levels not achievable with mica-based effect pigments. Whether it is a subtle silky shimmer, or a bold intense sparkle, the Moonshine pigments will no doubt help achieve spectacular colour cosmetic creations.
The four pigment series that make up the Moonshine range are: Moonshine Astral Effect Series Moonshine Effect Series Moonshine Ultra Effect Series Moonshine Colour Travel Series The Moonshine range will be on show for the first time in Amsterdam at in- cosmetics global 2018. Join Croda at stand G60 to preview the range, evaluate formulations and talk to our technical experts.
Also at in-cosmetics Global At Croda we place a strong emphasis on formulation expertise and work together with Sederma and Crodarom to develop innovative, high performance formulations that meet the needs of today’s demanding consumers. This year at in-cosmetics Global we are sponsoring the Formulation Challenge, a competition where six teams have 90 minutes to create a leave-on application for the face and body. In order to create this, a mystery box of ingredients will be selected for participants to use. Follow the link here
www.in-
cosmetics.com/about-the-show/show- features/seminars/ to register your interest to join the Formulation Challenge.
PC
References 1 Draelos ZD. Male skin and ingredients relevant to male skin care. British Journal of Dermatology 2012; 166(s1): 13-16.
2 Tur E. Physiology of the skin—differences between women and men. Clinics in Dermatology 1997; 15(1): 5-16.
3
https://www.fentybeauty.com/about-fenty 4
http://www.stonewall.org.uk/help- advice/glossary-terms
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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