100 PRESERVATIVES
Fragrances with broad microbial protection
Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care
The safety of personal care and cosmetic products is at the top of every manufacturer’s list of priorities, and a high level of safety would not be possible without the use of preservative ingredients which eliminate the growth of organisms within aqueous formulations. However, the range of available
preservative ingredients is very limited, meaning that formulators must be creative with their anti-microbial strategies. With this in mind, Ashland has introduced a new aromatic for the personal care and cosmetics industry that also contributes to the preservation of end use products delivering multifunctional benefits including broad anti-microbial protection. Conarom™ b aromatic addresses
growing consumer demand for multifunctional and sustainable ingredients. The aromatic is based on naturally derived hops extract and the nature identical phenylpropanol. It adds a gentle flowery-to- spicy fragrance to differentiate and impart additional allure to the end use formulation. At dosages of 0.3 to 2% it contributes to
microbial stabilisation by delivering broad antimicrobial protection as a secondary effect. Conarom b aromatic can be added to formulations at any phase of production when worked into products at ambient temperature. Ashland say that typical uses include body and skin care emulsions, sun care, shampoo and body washes, conditioners and wet wipes. Personal Care magazine spoke to Karen
Winkowski, PhD, global technical director, Preservatives and Microbial Technology, Ashland, and Andrea Wingenfeld, global marketing manager, Preservatives and Medical Care, Ashland, to discover more about the company’s approach to preservation and the new multifunctional ingredient.
Interview with Andrea Wingenfeld and Karen Winkowski Personal Care: What are the big changes that have occurred to the way preservatives are used in personal care over the last 10 years?
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Andrea Wingenfeld: The biggest impact has been that a lot of the actives that have been used for many years – the traditional preservatives – their usage has been declining. This is not just due to regulatory restrictions. As we all remember, we have had many changes in Europe in recent years; for example with preservatives such as isothiazolinone. The decline has also been driven by marketing – the public perception, followed by ‘free-from’ claims – which result in traditional preservatives being faded out.
PC: Does the consumer-led nature of some of the changes mean that you keep a close eye on personal care-related blogs and organisations? AW: For me, the biggest issue is really the packaging with claims such as “free from parabens”. Nobody, particularly end-users, will understand from that whether it’s a short-chain paraben or a long-chain paraben and this puts a lot of pressure on the chemicals that are used.
PC: Do you think there is therefore a requirement for the industry to better educate consumers on these issues? AW: That’s a very good question. We meet a lot of customers who have contact through the various different working groups with colleagues from other companies and it is quite difficult to educate the end users because they very often don’t have that level of
understanding. For example with parabens, if you explain to an end user that from a toxicological perspective there is a difference between methylparaben and isopropylparaben, they will look at you wide-eyed!
However we are trying to educate our customers – we are using tools like newsletters - to offer a realistic message, the real situation. But, honestly, the feedback we get from formulators is: “Yes, this is correct, and we know that. But our marketing department want us to put ‘free- from’ but we can’t use it anymore!” So we are in kind of a dilemma.
Karen Winkowski: I think overall as an industry we need to educate the consumers as much as we can with infographics or whatever means we have, and make sure they understand all of the risks when we don’t have a good palette of preservatives. So we need to reach out as an industry and put the right information in their hands.
PC: Do you think a reduced portfolio of usable preservatives has been one of the main issues for formulators? AW: Yes, definitely. A reduced portfolio is really pushing the formulators to work with fewer actives and sometimes they are also limited in the dosage. This makes them come up with more creative ideas! And we are able to help them in that respect, because if they don’t have enough preservation there is a risk that consumers will be overexposed to certain ingredients if everyone uses the same preservatives. And at high dosage there is a risk that end users can develop adverse effects such
April 2018
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