58 FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS


 O/W lamellar emulsifier  Able to emulsify up to 30% oil phase  High compatibility


Elegance


Comfort 71%


59%


100% 80 60 40 20


0 77% Calmness 67% 58% Joy Softness Improves


bioavailability of active ingredients for better efficacy


 Immediate smoothing


effect  Increased hydration  High skin tolerance


Figure 6: Universal emotional response profile to Biophilic H.


the cheekbone at Timm and T1h when the biomimetic emulsifier was included in the formulation.


Gloss is a visual impression resulting


from direct light reflection. Variations in surface texture thus directly influence the level of specular reflection.6


Increased


glossy appearance upon HA-gel application may be due to its propensity to form a thin continuous film that accentuates light reflection. In contrast, the lamellar structure promoted by the biomimetic emulsifier in formulations may diffuse the light in a more natural way when applied to the skin, instantly bringing a blurring effect on the skin, while preserving its brightness balance.


Universal emotional response profile A source of wellbeing


Many factors influence a consumer’s decision to purchase a cosmetic product for the first time, including reputation of the brand, tempting claims, the appeal of its originality, an affordable price, enticing packaging, recommendations and positive reviews from other consumers, a convincing advertising campaign, their own sensory experience at the store, etc. The decision to purchase the product again, however, is primarily dependent upon two criteria that the consumer will judge for himself, namely efficacy of the product and the pleasure they get from using it. This quest for pleasure is a universal one and one that often dictates choices against rational thoughts.


The evaluation of emotions induced on volunteers following application of a cream containing the biomimetic emulsifier was performed with the participation of 252


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


Figure 7: Biophilic H, the biomimetic multifunctional emulsifier with a cashmere touch.


women from three different countries (China, France and US). Volunteers were aged between 20-65 years. Thirty seconds following a single application of a simple cream containing 4% biomimetic emulsifier on their face, they were shown boards of images representing different kinds of emotions and were asked to evaluate to which level each board correlated to their immediate feeling. The exercise was done online. Figure 6 illustrates the resulting emotional response profile to the biomimetic emulsifier, as evaluated by this multiethnic panel of volunteers. Only positive emotions were felt by the participants, who mainly reported feelings such as calmness, comfort, softness, tenderness, joy and elegance after application of the cream.


The biomimetic emulsifier triggers a sensation of pleasure and wellbeing on the very first application for a lasting, unique and universal emotional experience.


Conclusion


Choosing the right emulsifier is crucial for the success of a formulation. Biophilic H is a natural phospholipid-based emulsifier with highly desirable properties. Its biomimetic lamellar structure guarantees strong biocompatibility and optimal skin tolerance. It is a performant emulsifier, capable of emulsifying up to 30% oil on itself and compatible with all kinds of oils, pigments, as well as chemical and physical UV filters. Its content in saturated lecithin provides important thickening properties and allow the formulation of white and odorless emulsions of various consistency, from cream to butter, with excellent


spreadability. It also texturises formulations with a soft cashmere touch. Biophilic H is more than a performant


emulsifier. It also acts as an efficient delivery system assuring more effective and faster diffusion of actives. On top of that, it has biological activities that help maintain skin functions, such has hydration and barrier function. It also shows immediate skin smoothing action and preserves skin brightness balance. It additionally brings an outstanding and unique sensory profile as soft and sophisticated as cashmere, even at low percentage. Emotionally approved by consumers, it triggers pleasure and wellbeing upon application. Biophilic H can be associated with advertising claims such as: natural origin, biodegradable, sustainable origin, RSPO certified ingredient (Available with the MB grade: Biophilic H MB), safe materials and GRAS-status (generally recognized as safe).


PC


References 1 Schaffer T. Lecithin and phospholipids – the optimal choice for natural cosmetics. Euro Cosmetics. 2007; 9.


2 Kutz G, Biebl P, Waldmann-Laue M, Jackwerth B. Zur auswabl von O/W emulgatoren für den einsatz in hautpflegeprodukten bei sensibler hau. SOFW Journal. 1997; 123:145-150.


3 Wanping Z, Lingyan L. Study on the Formation and Properties of Liquid Crystal Emulsion in Cosmetic. JCDSA 2013; 3:139-144.


4 Vavrova K, Kovačik A, Opalka L. Ceramides in the skin barrier. Eur. Pharm. J. 2017; 64(2):28-35


5 Keen MA. Hyaluronic Acid in Dermatology. Skinmed. 2017, 15(6):441-448.


6 Chadwick AC, Kentridge RW. The perception of gloss: a review. Vision Res. 2015; 109:221-35.


April 2018 Tenderness 58%


Positive emotions triggered for enhanced experience


Unique sensory signature:  Cushioned and smooth


application  Velvety and comfortable second skin sensation


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