114 SKIN PROTECTION
of collagen and elastin, but stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen type I.
Conclusion
Extrinsic skin ageing is a multifactorial process which involves both indoor and outdoor stress factors. Outdoor environmental agents, such as UV light or air pollution, have been recognised as ageing promoters for many years.
The continuous research on skin ageing found a new stress factor that dramatically impacts on it: blue light. The exposure to blue light is constant:
from the sun, but mainly, from electronic devices which we spend a lot of the time with.
Blue light is a source of oxidative stress,
which affects cell viability, DNA, lipids and dermal extracellular matrix components, which are crucial to maintain skin turgor and elasticity. Olea-HT 10, an effective antioxidant and radical scavenging cosmetic ingredient, with a high ORAC (Oxygen radical absorbance capacity) value of 72.000 µm TE/g, demonstrated to strongly reduce the oxidative phenomena related to blue light exposure. In vitrotests demonstrated that Olea-HT 10:
Protects keratinocytes and fibroblasts against blue light-induced cell proliferation damage
Reduces significantly blue light-induced ROS production
Protects DNA from blue light-induced damage
Promotes collagen synthesis and decreases the production of MMP-1 (collagenase) and MMP-12 (elastase). These data highlight that Olea-HT 10 is suitable to formulate cosmetic products aimed at counteracting and preventing premature ageing by indoor and outdoor
Expression of MMP-1 and MMP-12 in LED-BL treated fibroblasts
a MMP-12 MMP-1 Control
Blue light control
10 25 50
100 N.D. Control * * * * *
* * * *
0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1 1.2 A.D.U.
Blue light control
10 25 50
100 N.D. * * * *
0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1 1.2 A.D.U.
Figure 8: Data show the relative protein expression (mean ± SEM) of MMP-1, MMP-12 (a) and collagen type I (b) before and after LED-BL exposure (5 J/cm2
) and treatment of olive fruit extract. Data were
calculated as arbitrary densitometric units (ADU), collected from three independent experiments and normalised to α-Tubulin. *p < 0.05 vs. untreated control. (N.D. not determinate)
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Control
Blue light 10 µg/mL 25 µg/mL 50 µg/mL Olea-HT10
100 µg/mL Control b Blue light 10 µg/mL
25 µg/mL Olea-HT10
50 µg/mL a
Figure 7: Immunofluorescence of keratinocytes (a) and fibroblasts (b) treated with LED-BL and olive fruit extract and stained with antibody against 8-OHdG (red). The nuclei were counterstained with 4′,6- diamidino-2-phenylindole (DAPI) (blue).
environmental factors. Bionap suggests to use Olea-HT 10 in daily creams and lotions, alphabet creams (BB, CC and DD) and sun care products in order to provide an additional protection towards the radical species produced by solar radiation. Olea-HT 10 meets the needs of modern cosmetic formulators who want to produce innovative, green and sustainable cosmetic products.
PC
References 1 Vandersee S, Beyer M, Lademann J, Darvin ME. Blue-violet light irradiation dose dependently decreases carotenoids in human skin, which indicates the generation of free radicals. Oxidative medicine and cellular longevity 2015: 569675
2 Liebmann L, Born M, Kolb-Bachofen V. Blue- light irradiation regulates proliferation and
Expression of Collagen type I in LED-BL treated fibroblasts
b
differentiation in human skin cell. J Invest. Dermatol. 2010; 130: 259-269
3 Godley BF, Shamsi FA, Liang FQ, et al. Blue light induces mitochondrial DNA damage and free radical production in epithelial cells. J Biol Chem 2005, 280 (22): 21061-6
4 Denda M, Fuziwara S. Visible radiation affects epidermal permeability barrier recovery: selective effects of red and blue light. J Invest. Dermatol. 2008;128: 1335-1336
5 Lohan SB, Muller R, Albrecht S, et al. Free radicals induced by sunlight in different spectral regions—in vivo versus ex vivo study, Exp. Dermatol. 2016; 25 (5): 380–385.
6 Mahmoud BH, Ruvolo E, Hexsel CL, et al. Impact of long-wavelength UVA and visible light on melanocompetent skin, J. Invest. Dermatol. 2010; 130 (8): 2092–2097.
7 Zastrow L, Groth N, Klein F, et al. The missing link—light induced (280-1,600 nm) free radical formation in human skin, Skin Pharmacology and Physiology 2009; 22(1): 31–44
8 Visioli F, Bellomo G, Galli C. Free radical- scavenging properties of olive oil polyphenols. Biochem Biophys Res Commun 1998; 247: 60–64.
9 Guo W, An Y, Jiang L, Geng C, Zhong L. The Protective Effects of Hydroxytyrosol Against UVB-induced DNA Damage in HaCaT cells. Phytother. Res. 2010; 24: 352–359.
10 D’Angelo S, Ingrosso D, Migliardi V et al. Hydroxytyrosol, a natural antioxidant from olive oil, prevents protein damage induced by long-wave ultraviolet radiation in melanoma cells. Free Radical Biology & Medicine 2005; 38: 908– 919
11 Salucci S, Burattini S, Curzi D et al., Antioxidants in the prevention of UVB-induced keratinocyte apoptosis. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology 2014; 141: 1–9
12 Salucci S, Burattini S, Battistelli M et al. Tyrosol prevents apoptosis in irradiated keratinocytes. Journal of Dermatological Science 2015; 80: 61–68
April 2018
Olea-HT 10
(µg/mL)
Olea-HT 10
(µg/mL)
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