FORMULATING FOR MILDNESS 71


Into the red storm: fighting the effects of inflammation


 Dr Marisabel Mourelle PhD, Joan Gonzalez – Infinitec, Spain


Skin redness is a true cosmetic concern. Redness is an indication that there is inflammation in the skin and blood is rushing in to try to heal it. Red has never been a synonym of calm and tranquility. Redness is skin's default reaction to any number of conditions but the three most common are rosacea, allergies and skin sensitivity.


Sensitised skin reacts in an instant. It is a hostile, toxic world where UV light, chemicals, allergens and pollution pose a daily threat to healthy skin. Pollution, stress, hormones, cosmetics, climate, alcohol, diet, medical procedures and other factors can all lead to sensitised skin, which is defined as skin that displays a more reactive response to substances that are tolerated by the general population. This skin condition is the result of three key factors: a compromised lipid barrier layer, traditional immune activity and the neurogenic response in the skin, which is a newer area of research studying the effect of the nervous system, and its relationship to inflammation and sensitive skin. Traditionally, the immune system involved in inflammation requires prior sensitisation and is triggered by a foreign substance. This process results in the pain, redness, swelling, and heat associated with inflammation. But whereas immunogenic inflammation (in rosacea) is triggered by the immune system, neurogenic inflammation (in sensitive skin) is triggered by the nervous system. Both immunogenic and neurogenic inflammation can yield the same redness, itching and swelling that result when the body is injured or irritated. A major difference resides in the fact that erythema is always present in rosacea and tends to


COL1A2


Collagen I-α2


Mechanical support to tissues


April 2018 FN1 CHD2 Fibronectin 1 Cadherin 2


Anchors cells and ECM


Cell to cell adhesion


worsen with time while, in sensitive skin, redness is not always present and, when found, is rather transient and fluctuating in intensity. However facial erythema may be a manifestation of either condition. In the end, it is the combination of genetic susceptibility, immune disruption, nerve activity and epidermal barrier function that contributes to skin sensitivity and inflammation, so that, skin rednessdens.


Definition Activys®


Red-Out is a product targeting


redness that tackles skin immuno- modulation and reinforces skin barrier function to help reduce facial flushing and chronic redness, specially, in atopic-prone condition and skin hypersensitivity. It is based on curcumin and pine bark extracts encapsulated in a new capsule (Activys) specifically developed for sensitive and sensitised skin.


A new delivery system developed for sensitive skin Activys Red-Out offers a unique and synergistic combination between its carrier and the encapsulated actives. Activys capsules (now referred to as ‘the new capsule’) are vesicles made with omega-3 phospholipids containing n-3 long-chain polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) derived from a marine deep algae extract. Omega- 3 fatty acids are not present in skin. However, they are metabolised by skin epidermal enzymes into anti-inflammatory and anti-proliferative metabolites that are associated with a variety of benefits regarding inflammatory skin disorders. The new capsules show anti-inflammatory per se, are a perfect platform to boost active


ADAMTS15


ADAM metallopeptidase with thrombospondin type 1 motif 15


Versican (anti-adhesion molecule) degradation Cell adhesion


Table 1: Genes upregulated on in vitro cultured human keratinocytes POSTN TGM2 Periostin Transglutaminase 2


performance by improving their skin bioavailability.


Curcumin and pine bark: a powerful combination against flushing and redness Turmeric is a natural pigment derived from turmeric (Curcuma longa), a flower of the plant of the ginger family. Curcumin is a highly pleiotropic molecule capable of interacting with numerous molecular targets involved in inflammation. Curcumin inhibits inflammation by suppressing NF-kB, restricting various activators of NF-kB, as well as their expression. It also regulates the activity of several enzymes and cytokines by inhibiting COX-1 and COX-2. Due to its high anti- inflammatory activity, it can be considered an alternative natural route to non-steroidal agents for the treatment of inflammation. It has been demonstrated that the pine bark extract is a powerful antioxidant that neutralises the reactive oxygen molecules, responsible for triggering the cellular oxidation process. When these radicals are no longer under control, they wear down the collagen, act on the DNA level and cause numerous other effects, including allergic reaction and atopic dermatitis.


Its mechanism of action controls


redness on a daily basis, whether it be transitory or chronic to help patients suffering from redness to reduce the visible signs of inflammation.


Cell adhesion ECM stabilization


Analysis of gene expression modulation In order to disguise the mechanistic effects of Activys Red-Out on the skin, an analysis of gene expression upon Activys Red-Out (now referred to as ‘the anti-redness capsule’) treatment was performed. Normal human epidermal keratinocytes were cultured and expanded in vitro for 24 hours. HEK were then treated with 0.0001% pine bark extract (1,7 µM of proanthocyanidin) and 0.0001% of curcumin (2,7 µM) for another 24 hours. RNA, product of gene expression, was then isolated, turned into cDNA and hybridised to cDNA control in


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