SUSTAINABILITY 167
oil, coconut oil, argan oil) without any limitation of concentration. A panel of 20 volunteers tested three different cosmetic formulations to evaluate the sensorial feel of Tripelargonin in a cosmetic finished product:
An emulsion containing 7% Tripelargonin has been compared versus the same formulation containing the same dosage of ethylhexyl stearate.
A DD cream containing 3% Tripelargonin has been compared versus the same formulation containing the same dosage of isodecyl neopentanoate. A sun spray oil containing 23.7%
Tripelargonin has been compared versus the same formulation containing the same dosage of caprylic/capric triglyceride. Volunteers positively score the product pointing out: the higher softness sensation, the more pleasant the skin’s smoothness and the higher and quicker absorption rate into the skin that performs a low greasy feel. Figures 1, 2 and 3 summarise the average score following a numerical scale from 0 (minimum rate) to 3 (maximum rate). Evaluation from volunteers highlights the comparable performance of Tripelargonin versus standard benchmarks making it the responsible choice for sustainable effective cosmetics. Tripelagonin’s cosmetic performances have been also successfully measured in: Pigment dispersion: results show the better flowability, film uniformity and gloss effect performed by the product allowing the possibility to use 30% less of solvent generally used;
UV filter dispersion: compared to benchmark, Tripelargonin demonstrates a better and faster solubilisation of organic filters (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, Benzophenone-3, Ethylexyl Methoxycinnamate, Octyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Octocrylene) and dispersion of physical filters (Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide);
Anhydrous formula (lipstick): cosmetics products manufactured with Tripelargonin reveal to have higher colour intensity, better spreadability and gloss effect;
Compact powders: Tripelargonin is showed to be an excellent ally in colour cosmetic formulations thanks to its good binding capacity of talc already at 2%, giving dry, creamy, silky and pleasant touch on the skin.
Sustainable cosmetics: further developments Future developments are intended to broaden the portfolio of sustainable esters starting from 2018, with the same eco- sustainable philosophy of Tripelargonin:
April 2018
Neopentyl Glycol Dipelargonate: emollient ester with a dry, silky, smooth and evanescent touch, characterised by easy spreading qualities, good and quick absorption. It can be used instead of other dry and silky-touch esters, having the same final performances. Esters with a similar molecular structure available on the market are: isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and ethylhexyl palmitate. It has as a benchmark in terms of performance the silicone cyclopentasiloxane. Thanks to these features, Neopentyl Glycol Dipelargonate is particularly suggested for skin care, sun care and hair care products. Pentaerythrytyl Tetrapelargonate: emollient ester with a rich and precious touch and a velvet after-feel, characterised by low spreadability, shiny and glossy properties, long lasting and film forming effects. Products with similar applications on the market are diisostearyl malate and octyldodecanol. Thanks to its particular properties, Pentaerythrytyl Tetrapelargonate is ideal for makeup products as well as skin care and sun care formulations.
Conclusion Tripelargonin (Celus-Bi®
Light Ester developed
by Roelmi HPC) represents a responsible alternative for sustainable cosmetics: the
normal evolution of ‘cosmetic species’ is in the direction of sustainability and eco-responsibility. It is this concrete effort, based on a knowledge-sharing partnership, that seeks to make real the circular economy. Characterised by high performance characteristics and safety, it is the new generation of esters, available today for tomorrow’s cosmetics. The remarkable affinity with sustainable cosmetics and circular economy have been awarded at Cosmetorium 2017 (Barcelona – Spain) with the first prize for Sustainability and during Ecomondo 2017 (Rimini – Italy) with the recognition of Roelmi HPC as one of the 10 best companies involved in the circular economy. Future product developments are intended in 2018, in order to approach the esters market with valuable ingredients, recognised by positive impact on nature, safety for people and cutting-edge performance.
PC
References 1 Adams WM. The future of sustainability:
re-thinking environment and development in the twenty-first century. IUCN: the World Conservation Union, Report of the IUCN Renowned Thinkers Meeting, 29-31 January 2006
2
https://echa.europa.eu/documents/ 10162/13628/raaf_en.pdf
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