122 SKIN PROTECTION
Urban pollution protection for beautiful, balanced skin
Liki von Oppen-Bezalel – IBR, Israel
Environmental pollutants including heavy metals and other toxic compounds such as PAHs and aldehydes are increasingly abundant in our urbanised and industrialised environments. One of the emerging environmental pollutants of concern in recent years is blue light. Blue light or high-energy visible light (HEV) refers to wavelengths between 390 and 500 nm. It is emitted from a large number of artificial light sources, such as blue LED, and from direct sunlight. Pollutants are known to have detrimental effects on our skin and body and lead to various illnesses such as respiratory diseases, headaches, asthma, skin rashes and more. However, the initial effects on our appearance are early signs of ageing including: wrinkles, pigmentation spots, disrupted barrier, overall dryness and skin imperfections. There are multiple ways to prevent,
reverse and repair pollution damage, some of which were used in demonstrating the benefits of the product we are introducing here. These include detoxification via deactivation of pollutants, demonstrated here through reduction of HEV-induced ROS production, chelation capacity; and increasing viability of micro algae in the presence of pollution, partially via detoxification and pre-biotic benefits.
27.0 24.0 21.0 18.0 15.0 12.0 9.0 6.0 3.0 0.0
Figure 1: ITA variation. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Abstract
In our urbanised and industrialised environments, we are exposed to increasingly abundant environmental pollutants. Heavy metals, PAHs and aldehydes is just a short list of toxic compounds surrounding us, having detrimental effects on our skin and body, causing respiratory diseases, headaches, asthma and skin rashes, which are just a few health aspects to mention. High Energy Visible (HEV) light including blue light is another type of ‘pollution’ affecting among others our skin. Our appearance is the first to be affected, with early signs of ageing, wrinkles, pigmentation spots, disrupted barrier, overall dryness and skin imperfections all associated with polluted environments. IBR-UrBioTect, an extract of Inula helenium, may help repair and reverse the effects of pollution, according to results of a clinical study in a smoking environment (cigarette smoke). In this study, reduction of early signs of ageing in a smoking environment has been achieved using a formula containing 1% IBR-UrBioTect. The extract has also been shown to chelate and neutralise pollutants such as heavy metals which cause accumulated damage to the skin, as efficiently protect skin cells from HEV induced ROS production. We propose here a natural and innovative solution to relieve and repair the effects of pollution on the skin and the appearance of early signs of aging in a polluted environment, promoting a lighter skin tone as well as reducing wrinkle count, and improving skin elasticity and barrier function.
Protection in a smoking environment – in vivostudy In order to demonstrate the protective effects of IBR-UrBioTect (now referred to as ‘Inula helenium extract’) against a polluted environment, a clinical study was carried out, using a population of heavy smokers as a model for skin exposed to
Active with 1% IBR-UrBioTect Placebo 25.4
*
airborne pollution. In this study, the anti-ageing and detoxifying effects of a cosmetic product were evaluated, expressed as a lightening and depigmentation effect, a reduction of the appearance of wrinkles, an improvement of the skin biomechanical properties (elasticity) and an improvement of skin barrier function.
The study was designed as follows: Double blind, active with 1% Inula
helenium extract vs. placebo (cream-gel). Age distribution: 46-60; n = 26; all- female; all skin types and phototype II to III. Subjects with ‘heavy smoking habits’
* 15.6
(>10 cigarettes / day), and ‘with ageing signs’ in the eye area. Split-face (left/right) application twice daily for 4 weeks, with measures @ D0, D14, and D28.
7.1 4.6 D14 D28
Results Promotes skin lightening in a smoking environment Chromameter data show that daily application of the active product results in a small though significant increase in L* (skin lightening), and a significant reduction in b* (sallowness). Taken together, these combine into a
April 2018
% change (%) from D0
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