SKIN CARE 151 Cross-polarized images Reduction of segmented pore surfaces (in blue)
T=0 Figure 2: Beauactive visibly reduced age spot contrast..
Meeting the challenge DSM relished the challenge to find a sustainable way to combat both conspicuous facial pores and age spots. Our researchers took inspiration from the
hydroxystearic acid which is widely distributed in fermented healthy Asian food2 Beauactive.
to discover A1 This high-purity hydroxystearic acid is
produced with a biotechnological process that fulfills both DSM’s high standards on sustainability and the principles of Green Chemistry3
due to the use of a plant derived
source (oleic acid), a highly efficient bio-catalyst (oleate hydratase) and a water-based, energy- efficient process. Our researchers now demonstrated in an
in vivo study for the first time that a highly pure hydroxystearic acid also exhibits dual skin benefits by combatting at the same time conspicuous facial pores and age spots.
In vivostudy confirms effectiveness In vivo results confirmed the efficacy of Beauactive (now referred to as ‘hydroxysteric acid’). In an eight-week placebo-controlled, double blind study, 37 volunteers (aged 38–65, mean 53.4 yrs) received the product formulation with 1% hydroxysteric acid and 38 volunteers (aged 34–65, mean 54.4 yrs) had the vehicle formulation. Volunteers applied their respective test formulation to the entire face twice daily (mornings and evenings) for eight weeks. Image analysis and statistics on conspicuous facial pores and age spots were performed with the, calibrated high resolution Visia images in cross- or parallel-polarised mode.
After four weeks hydroxysteric acid visibly
corrects the appearance of conspicuous facial pores and age spots contrast.
Transformational products have the power to wow consumers In August 2016, after the in-cosmetics Paris show, Global Cosmetic Industry magazine declared that “Transformational Beauty Products are the Future”. Transformational products feature innovative textures that change consistency during use. So for example a liquid changes to foam on application. Others might transform from liquid to foam, oil to foam, gel to cream, lotion to milk or mousse to lotion. In the case of hydroxysteric acid our
April 2018 C
A1 B
Formulation 1: Transforming Power Cream Phase A
Ingredients Water DEM.
Euxyl PE 90107 Dekaben CP3
Cremerglyc Refined Glycerine Organic6
Keltrol CG-T2
Tego Care Cg 908 Lanette O4 Myritol 3184
Massocare Hd9 Beauactive®1
Sepinov Emt 105 Frag 49454695 Sail Away10 Procedure:
Heat Phase A up to 80-85°C, premix A1 and add to phase A under stirring. Heat Phase B up to 80- 85°C under stirring. Add Phase B to phase A and homogenise. Cool down under stirring and add phase C. Pour into packaging between 60-65°C and let cool down to RT.
Suppliers: 1 DSM 2 CP Kelco 3 Jan Dekker 4 BASF 5 Seppic 6 Cremer Oleo GmbH & Co 7 Schulke & Mayr 8 Evonik 9 Masso 10 Drom ragrances GmbH & Co
prototype formulation Transforming Power Cream transforms from an easy-to-apply, semi- solid, enriched cream to take on a fresh, melting texture for a new sensory experience offering a high level of skin comfort. Effective at just 1% hydroxysteric acid this
formulation will generate the wow effect. The ingredient can also be used in roll-on applications, transparent sun stick, oily serum, gel-to-milk cleanser and O/W night cream… Or combine it with DSM’s certified organic ALP-Sebum and SYN-Star for a formulation that combats the appearance of enlarged pores and hyperpigmentation at any age.
Conclusion
Most people looking for beautiful skin think first of eliminating lines and wrinkles. But other concerns, such as conspicuous facial pores and age spots, may be equally troubling. These arise after the age of 30 and are mainly caused by the ageing process, exacerbated by sun damage. DSM is addressing these concerns with Beauactive. In summary, Beauactive is a high-purity,
potent hydroxystearic acid that fulfills both DSM’s high standards on sustainability and the principles of Green Chemistry and visibly reduces both conspicuous facial pores and age spots.
In vivo studies have confirmed the efficacy of Beauactive which results in a visible reduction of conspicuous facial pores and age spots, giving skin a younger, improved appearance after the age of 30. At DSM we see ourselves as more than a supplier of high-quality ingredients. By conducting original consumer and market research, anticipating trends and working closely in partnership with our customers we aim to co-create formulations and concepts that consumers will fall in love with.
PC
Referances 1 Global DSM Survey on 468 women, 2014 2 Masatake I, Susumu H, Mieko A. Nippon Nogei Kagaku Kaishi (1983); 57(11): 1113-20.
3 Anastas PT, Warner JC. Green Chemistry: Theory and Practice, Oxford University Press: New York, 1998, 30.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
INCI Aqua
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin Chlorphenesin
Glycerin Xanthan Gum
Cetearyl Glucoside Cetearyl Alcohol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Isohexadecane
Hydroxystearic Acid
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Parfum
T=4 weeks Pigmentation Low
T=8 weeks Medium High %
ad 100 1.00 0.20
4.00
0.20 1.50 1.00 5.00 5.00 1.00
0.50 0.20
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