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MARINE INGREDIENTS 143 p<0.05 Student test


4% 2% 0% -2% -4% -6% -8%


2.8%


9.1% -6.3% Placebo Mean value


Figure 5: Crow’s feet wrinkles depth after treatment with Fucoreverse at 1.5%, versus placebo.


Skin surface is quantitatively assessed by Lifeviz Micro. It is a non-contact in vivo skin measurement device based on structured light projection. In conjunction with a comprehensive 3D measurement and evaluation software, the sensor enables the evaluation of wrinkle depth.


Results Efficacy on crow’s feet area after 28 days After using 1.5% anti-ageing active twice daily for 28 days, statistics show that the anti-ageing active significantly decreases the depth of crow’s feet wrinkles by 9.1% on average, versus placebo. P<0.05 Student test.


Efficacy on anti-irritant properties The study showed a significant decrease in irritations and redness as shown in Figure 5. The subjects who used the product containing the anti-ageing active had good skin tolerance whereas those who used the placebo cosmetic base had moderate tolerance with a few cases of skin irritation. These results show the use of the anti-ageing active to calm sensitive skin.


Whitening the skin


100% 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% 40% 30% 20% 10% 0%


96% 88% 81% 68% 49% 8% 83.3ppm


Fucowhite 166.7ppm


Figure 7: Tyrosinase inhibition activity. April 2018 355ppm 1.2ppm 3.7ppm Hydroquinone 11.1ppm Figure 6: Macrophotography effect of 1.5% Fucoreverse on crow’s feet wrinkles.


Fucowhite is a clinically validated skin whitening ingredient which significantly decreases skin pigmentation. Fucowhite (now referred to as ‘the skin whitening active’) is a unique purified fucoidan- phloroglucinol complex, extracted from the brown algae Ascophyllum nodosum by lixiviation in water. This unique complex of fucoidan with antioxidant polyphenol, makes it an effective and versatile ingredient for whitening applications.


Tyrosinase inhibitory activity The skin’s pigmentation results from the presence of melanin in the epidermis. This pigment is synthesised in vesicles known as melanosomes of specialised cells, melanocytes. The melanin pigment is produced using tyrosine, an essential amino acid that is submitted to a series of reactions, linked to tyrosinase, as the key enzyme in this biosynthesis, to form melanin. The enzyme tyrosinase was incubated with its substrate tyrosine. The product of this reaction (melanin) was analysed by measuring the optical density at 480 nm. The skin whitening active was an effective tyrosinase inhibitor at very low concentrations.


Lightening efficacy on Asian skin type Twenty-four Asian subjects were used in a placebo controlled study during 28 days to assess the ability of a 2% skin whitening active emulsion formulation to decrease the skin pigmentation. The colour of the skin was measured by a chromameter. This appliance makes it possible to define a luminance parameter: L, clarity from dark to pale; an individual typological angle ITA which defines the degree of pigmentation of an individual’s skin.


The results show a significant increase of skin clarity and decrease of the skin pigmentation. Statistical analysis highlights a significantly better effect using the ‘active cream’ on L parameter and ITA compared with placebo. It induces a lightening effect characterised by a significant increase in L and ITA parameters.


PC


References 1. Moon HJ, Lee SH, Ku MJ et al. Fucoidan


inhibits UVB-induced MMP-1 promoter expression and down regulation of type 1 procollagen synthesis in human skin fibroblasts, Eur J Dermatol 2009; 19(2): 129-34.


2. Yang JH. Topical application of fucoidan improves atopic dermatitis symptoms in NC/Nga mice. Phytother Res 2012; 26(12):1898:903


3. Robert C, Robert AM. Effect of L-fucose and fucose-rich oligo-and polysaccharides (FROP-s) on skin aging: penetration, skin tissue production and fibrillogenesis. Skin Res Technol. 2005; 11(1):47-52.


4. Senni K, Gueniche F, Foucault-Bertaud I et al. Fucoidan a sulfated polysaccharide from brown algae is a potent modulator of connective tissue proteolysis. Arch Biochem Biophys 2006; 445(1): 56-64


5. Isnard M, Fodil-Bourahla I, Robert AM, Robert L.Pharmacology of skin aging. Stimulation of glycosaminoglycan biosynthesis by L-fucose and fucose-rich polysaccharides, effect of in vitro aging of fibroblasts. Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy 2004; 58: 202-204.


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE D28


% inhibition


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