ANTI-POLLUTION 83
The natural solution to pollution
Bernd Walzel, Beatrix Senti, Stefan Bänziger, Ulrike Bätz – Lipoid Kosmetik, Switzerland
Undoubtedly, pollution-induced skin damage will be a fundamental focus of the cosmetics industry in the next decades. A typical constituent of air pollution is so- called particulate matter (PM) – tiny particles, classified by their size into inhalable PM (< 2.5 μm in size) and not inhalable PM (2.5 - 10 μm in size). These PM disrupt the integrity of the skin barrier and, in addition, function as carriers of pollutants that adsorb to their surface.1
This way, PM
enhances the penetration and accumulation of harmful substances in the skin.2 Pollutants that enter the skin by way of PM include substances from the class of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH), heavy metals, endotoxins, ions, or reactive gases. The PAH Benzo[a]pyrene (BaP) is considered one of the most dangerous.3 Pollutants, and harmful substances carried by them, affect the skin on several levels: first, they induce oxidative stress, second, they stimulate inflammatory pathways, and finally they accentuate the visible signs of ageing.3,4
In fact, scientific
studies demonstrated that air pollutants induce the formation of wrinkles and pigmentation spots.5
The skin‘s own detoxification tools The skin, which is exposed to pollutants and toxins, is equipped with a powerful, endogenous, two-phase detoxification machinery. This system first identifies and chemically activates toxic substances by specific enzymes, and second, it enzymatically conjugates these activated toxins to water- soluble carriers, which can then be eliminated from the body via the kidneys.
Phase I: Pollutants are activated for further processing, but become toxic The aryl hydrocarbon-receptor (AHR) is a pollutant sensor that constitutes the starting point of the detoxification mechanism.6
In phase I, aromatic
hydrocarbons (e.g. present in cigarette smoke) bind to and activate AHR. The activated receptor, then, induces defence-related genes, such as enzymes of the cytochrome P450 superfamily.7
These April 2018 Abstract
Exposure to air pollutants is one of the major threats to skin health. Contaminants attack the skin on several levels: they induce oxidative stress, they stimulate inflammatory pathways, and they accelerate the ageing process of skin. As a consequence, consumers demand functional cosmetics that prevent and repair pollution-induced skin damage. In this respect, the most promising approach is using the body’s endogenous detoxification machinery, which is composed of a multitude of cell-protective and detoxifying mechanisms. These powerful systems are capable of neutralising thousands of toxic molecules per second, whereas the mere application of antioxidants is much less efficient, as one antioxidant molecule is capable of neutralising only one free radical. HerbaShield URB addresses these concerns. The COSMOS-approved multi- component active ingredient targets three mechanisms to naturally reduce pollution- induced skin damage: (1) It strengthens the skin’s barrier through hydrogenated lecithin; (2) it protects from radical oxygen species through natural antioxidants; and (3) it enhances the endogenous detoxification machinery through natural activators of detoxifying enzymes. The presented anti-pollution ingredient is a perfect fit for anti-ageing cosmetics and
to be formulated in skin care applications, such as face care, body care, and cleansing products.
enzymes oxidise the corresponding toxins for further conjugation. However, this reaction itself also generates reactive intermediates and reactive oxygen species that collaterally cause cell damage.8 Therefore, a stimulation of phase I may be harmful to the skin.9
Phase II: Activated toxins are conjugated to S-glutathione and eliminated from the body During phase II, the reactive intermediates are transformed into excretable products.10 This final detoxification is controlled by a nuclear factor called Nrf2.7
Nrf2 activates a broad range of antioxidative genes,11 and
initiates their transcription, including glutathione-S-transferase (GST). GST enzymatically transfers a highly soluble tripeptide (S-glutathione) to the activated toxin, which can now be excreted via the kidneys (Fig 1).
Anti-pollution strategy for cosmetics Strengthening the skin’s barrier and its endogenous detoxification machinery is a promising anti-pollution strategy for cosmetics. To this end, reinforcement of the skin’s barrier would reduce the penetration
and accumulation of pollutants and avoid the initiation of Phase I and its negative side effects. Once entered into Phase I, the administration of natural antioxidants (e.g. from botanical extracts) would reduce oxidative stress. To support Phase II of the detoxification process, natural activators of Nrf2 (e.g. flavonoids from botanical extracts) would enhance the activity of detoxifying enzymes, such as GST, and reinforce fast elimination of toxic substances.7,12
In summary, cosmetic
treatment directed at individual stages of the skin’s endogenous detoxification machinery, would better protect our skin from environmental pollutants and from the health risks associated with them.
The natural approach to skin detoxification The active ingredient presented here is a three-component natural ingredient based on watercress, horsetail, and nettle extract (INCI: Maltodextrin, Nasturtium Officinale Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Leaf Extract, Sodium Chloride). The aqueous-ethanolic extract is embedded
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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