SKIN CARE 147
Clinical study: a visible improvement of the eye contour area
The horse chestnut flower extract was tested in vivo in a double blind study conducted in France (in collaboration with IEC, Institut d’Expertise Clinique) versus placebo on a panel of 32 Caucasian women (average age:58.8±5.4, phototype II to IV, all skin types with 38% of sensitive skin and 25% of sensitive eyes) presenting marked crow’s feet, under-eye wrinkles and a visible tear trough.
The aim of this test was to assess the
effect of the horse chestnut flower extract formulated at 2% on all eye contour wrinkles after 14, 28 and 56 days of repeated applications on split face under normal conditions of use and using several evaluation techniques. A clinical scoring was performed by a
dermatologist under standardised conditions (in terms of position, lighting, temperature and hygrometry) using 10- point scales (0 to 9) for five parameters (tear trough severity, lifted aspect of the eye contour, smooth aspect of the skin of the eye contour, tonicity of the eye contour and overall skin quality of each half-face) and using photographic scales15
to evaluate
crow’s feet and under-eye wrinkles severity. The variations shown in Figure 2 for 100% of the panel testify of the ingredient’s efficacy in just 2 weeks: under-eye wrinkles and crow’s feet are reduced; the valley of tears is visibly smoothed. Moreover, texture of the skin, its visual aspect and quality are significantly improved with the active compared to the placebo (Fig 3). Topometry of crow’s feet wrinkles was
measured by image analysis with the Quantirides®
software (Monaderm) on skin
replica (based on the drop shadows technique). The cream with the horse chestnut flower extract significantly reduces the wrinkles whereas the placebo has no effect. Furthermore, crow’s feet and under-eye wrinkles (length, surface and volume) were studied by in vivo fringe projection (Breuckman – Eotech). This modern technique allows visualising the efficacy in three dimensions.
In addition, and by means of a self- assessment in Figure 3, volunteers confirmed that under-eye and crow’s feet wrinkles are reduced and the overall skin quality and comfort improved.
Using 2% horse chestnut flower extract, the following claims apply to any skin care product: Significantly reduces all eye contour wrinkles appearance
Restructures and smoothes the skin Improves overall skin quality and comfort Rapid efficacy
April 2018 D0 D28
Innovative Tools for R&D Nail StrainStress Meter
For the first time, the mechanical properties of nails can easily be measured:
elastic property of the complete nail elasticity of the distal edge (flexibility) of the nail structural strength (firmness) determination of nail thickness
Indentometer
An alternative approach to assessing the mechanical parame- ters of the skin:
determination of skin stiffness / softness three pin sizes for various skin sites special probe for scalp measurement connectable to MPA system
visit us: in-cosmetics global stand L 139
Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH Cologne • Germany • Phone ++49-221-9564990
info@courage-khazaka.de •
www.courage-khazaka.de
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE D0 Figure 5: Tear trough (vol. 14-62 y.o. - D0/D28). D56 Figure 4: Crow’s feet (vol.02-65y.o - D0/D56).
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