LIFESTYLE COSMETICS 139
health by rebalancing the microflora, another key trend in today’s formulations. This product fosters shine-free skin, making it less susceptible to acne development and improving the appearance through reducing irritation, while refining the complexion. To create a matte, shine free primer, Rice PO4 Natural from Agrana, a phosphate cross-linked starch based on rice, is included. With its unique small particle size it incorporates a silicone-like powdery feel, while absorbing excess oil during activity to maintain a shine-free appearance. Finally, EverSoft™ UCS-30S from Sino Lion, an environmentally friendly, sustainable amino acid-based surfactant, facilitates the creation of a unique texture without the requirement to be washed off immediately due to its super mild profile.
For active men Formulations developed specifically for men are a key market need, so Revitalising Hydra Gel has been formulated. This is a light, quick breaking gel perfect for the active man. It refreshes the skin due to the incorporation of CelluOil™ Ment (Menthol) from Tagra Biotechnologies, a cellulose- based encapsulated menthol, which protects and prevents the loss of volatile aromatic ingredients during both the production and life of the formulation, while improving and prolonging the controlled release of the menthol during use. Gatuline®
Formulation 2: Active Body Butter. Phase
A
Tradename Emulium®
Delta1 Alcoltex 18992
Temest GMS V402 Isostearyl Isostearate
Temest IPP2
Lipocire™ A SG1 BRB DM 203 BRB 28363
B
demin. water Glycerin Genu®
C
Genencare® Geogard®
V-Tonic1 INCI
Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG- 75 Stearate, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20
Stearyl Alcohol Glyceryl Stearate
Isostearyl Isostearate
Isopropyl Palmitate C10-18 Triglycerides Dimethicone
Stearyl Dimethicone, Octadecene Aqua
phresh DF Pectin4 OSMS BA5
ECT6
Glycerin Pectin
Betaine
Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid Sorbic Acid and Glycerin
Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Nut/Stem Oil, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Cistus Ladaniferus Oil
D NaOH (44%) Procedure:
Heat phase A and phase B separately to 80ºC. Add phase A to phase B and homogenise. Cool down to 40ºC whilst mixing. Adjust pH with phase D as necessary to between pH 5-6.
Suppliers: 1 Gattefosse 2 Temix 3 BRB 4 CP Kelco 5 Dupont 6 Lonza
Skin Repair Bio from Gattefosse is incorporated as a natural, anti-ageing active that heals and repairs the skin barrier aspect. This smart, adaptive active brings both moisturising properties and protection against environment and pollution. Therefore it is perfect for products targeting dry, damaged or mature skin, giving urban protection to daily wear products. Research shows that nearly half of
German consumers are interested in body care products that assist in recovery from exercise. Moisturisers help the skin to recover but often attaining absorption is difficult, so Active Body Butter has been created to be a fast absorbing body butter specifically for use after sporting activities. Emulium®
Delta from Gattefosse is an
emulsifier which forms a very sensorially pleasant, oil-in-water emulsion with an extremely soft and velvet skin feel that is combined with a rich, luxurious texture. To improve skin hydration, GENU®
pHresh™ DF Pectin from CP Kelco has been selected. A natural polysaccharide extracted from citrus peel, along with the ability to form flexible films the pH of pectin is similar to that of the skin’s natural acid mantle. In vitro and in vivo studies have shown GENU pHresh DF Pectin has the ability to buffer to natural skin pH and the speed with which it can adjust skin pH,
April 2018
results in an exceptional skin-feel. Unlike other acidic materials, such as alpha hydroxy or citric acid which penetrate the skin and may cause irritation, GENU pHresh DF Pectin is a long-chain polysaccharide which remains on the skins surface, making it exceptionally mild.
Enhancing the exercise regime Research indicates that 53% of Italian consumers are interested in products which enhance and prolong the effects of exercise. Sculpting Cream has been formulated specifically as a light and easily absorbed cream with a warming sensation which is felt during application and which can be used on any part of the face or body to actively sculpt. A sculpting active, HCAP™ from Showa Denko acts as a slimming and anti-ageing active being a lipophilic derivative of hydroxycitric acid, an organic acid found in the fruit skin of Garcinia cambogia. After permeation through the skin, it is digested into hydroxycitric acid by the action of an enzyme inside the user’s cells, inhibiting the activity of ATP citrate lyase. As a result, the synthesis and accumulation of fatty acid is controlled, greatly contributing to slimming. HCAP also inhibits fat metabolism in fibroblasts as citric acid becomes available for use by energy-producing organellas
inside cells. This increases the efficiency of energy production, promoting metabolism and activating cells resulting in the increased production of elastin, effectively preventing skin sagging and may be applied to sculpt wherever needed. For the sensorial warming effect, the
active ingredient SenseHot™ from Sino Lion is chosen due its ability to achieve a gentle warming sensation, and when used in combination with cooling agents the sensorial effect can be amplified. Finally, Dub OE from Stéarinerie Dubois is one of the lightest natural esters available on the market and is a natural alternative to volatile silicones, allowing for light skin feel combined with high spreadability. Dub OE contains omega 6 and 9 and is an excellent choice as a solubiliser for active ingredients.
Conclusion
The Active Beauty range is about finding the perfect balance between the needs of our health, our bodies and social responsibilities. The innovative formulations created by Azelis strive to meet the complex functional needs of today’s active consumers as well as their concerns on ethical sourcing and sustainability. All in addition to addressing the practicalities of how the formulations are used in an active day to day life.
PC PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Aqua, Sodium Hydroxide % 3.00
1.50 1.50
1.50 2.50
3.00 5.00 3.00
to 100.00% 1.00
1.00 2.00 1.00
1.00
0.20
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