90 TESTING


Advanced instrumentation optimises nail care products


 Jo Smewing - Stable Micro Systems, UK


In a vast global cosmetics market forecast to reach US$ 675 billion by 2020,1


only the


fittest can survive. That means outstanding consumer insight, creativity, constant NPD and a sharp focus on quality. While these attributes are required throughout the category, it is especially the case when it comes to nail cosmetics. A longstanding aspect of the beauty industry, nail care has become a top priority for many consumers in today’s celebrity-obsessed, selfie-taking society. With demand growing incessantly, it is more important than ever to develop the perfect product quickly and ensure quality standards are never compromised. Using objective analysis techniques is a reliable and proven way to optimise formulations and maintain quality and consistency, so improving consumer experience, boosting loyalty and growing long-term sales.


Challenging formulations Today’s nail care products have to meet a very demanding brief. Appearance is, of course, critical, but, ease of application, durability and comfort must also be taken into consideration. The attributes of the final nail care product are more aspirational than ever, and while new ingredients open up new opportunities, equally it can be difficult to develop products for some growing segments, such as ‘free-from’ and natural, due to limitations on the ingredients


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-200 -400 -600 -800


and components that can be used. These factors further emphasise the need for reliable and objective analysis techniques. Traditional ASTM or ISO methodologies


are difficult to apply to nail products as there are limitations on sample preparation and test methods. Instead, customised, innovative tests must be used to closely imitate both application and use. The latest techniques are carried out using a desktop


texture analyser, which is fitted with probes appropriate to the tests being undertaken.


Nail polish: the star of the nail care category Forecast to grow at a CAGR of nearly 7% to 2021,2


nail polish holds widespread appeal


throughout the global cosmetics sector. ‘Fast drying’ is a property increasingly sought by demanding consumers but smudging is still a common complaint, especially in polishes with fewer volatile solvents. The Nail Polish Adhesion Rig enables formulators to measure drying time accurately, so helping identify the ingredients that will give a flawless, smudge-free finish.


500 1000 1500 2000 2500 Time (sec) Figure 1: Results of adhesive tests conducted over a period of approximately forty minutes. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


Assessing nail polish performance at the time of application Nail polish is poured into a 20 cm channel to a depth of 0.5 mm and subjected to ten successive adhesive tests. A 2.5 cm ball probe holds a specific force on the polish to allow a bond to form, and is then quickly withdrawn, breaking the nail polish bonds. The force required to do this for each of


April 2018


Force (g)


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