138 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
Protection from the sun Before heading outside you can rely on Solar Protection Cream, a fast absorbing sun care emulsion, with a smooth non-tacky skin-feel. Seaweed-derived raw materials, according to data obtained from Mintel, have in recent years been highlighted as being healthy and sustainable raw material across both food and personal care products. It also fits well with regards to sustainable sourcing. Quidgel BRM PE from Assessa is a stabilised product derived from three marine algae of the Rhodophyceae (red algae) and Phaeophyceae (brown algae) classes harvested on the unspoilt beaches of north-eastern Brazil. These algae are collected, dried and sent to the plant for treatment, combining and processing. It is a powerful immune-stimulant derived from selected, purified fractions of three marine algae, forming a bio-polymeric bio- stimulating mesh. Quidgel BRM PE stimulates the production of keratinocytes against environmental damage from UV and pollutants and promotes the production of fibroblasts and collagen. It also accelerates the regeneration of damaged skin, and thanks to its cell- boosting and anti-inflammatory properties, prevents premature ageing and revives ageing skin. It also provides protection for skin against UV radiation and oxidant- related stress. For sun protection formulations the
desired texture and speed of absorption are critical as they dictate how user friendly and effective a formulation is perceived to be. Incorporations of sun filters may lead to formulations that are oily, sticky or heavy and completely unacceptable from a consumer’s view. To obtain the desired product attributes for active sun protection, Rheomer®
SC-Plus
from Solvay has been used. As a rheology modifier specifically designed for oil-in-water emulsions to create the light skin-feel in addition to efficient viscosity building, this polymer stabilises oil-in-water formulations and allows the incorporation of electrolytes or electrolyte containing ingredients.
Exercise-proof beauty There is a desire to be able to look good before, during and after exercise so Ready To Go Primer has been developed to keep the skin perfectly balanced whatever the conditions. Forming a light film on the skin, this primer is an intensely hydrating base combined with both active and passive mechanisms for oil and sebum regulation to promote effortless beauty. RonaCare® SereneShield from Merck is used due its ability to relieve skin from the susceptibility of developing acne, both by regulating sebum and by further reducing inflammation while supporting the skin’s
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Formulation 1: Perfect Skin Day Care. Phase A
Tradename Polyaldo® DUB®
10-2-P KFG1 GMS2
Stearyl Alcohol RonaCare®
AP3 DUB® Helioptima2
INCI
Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate Glyceryl Stearate Stearyl Alcohol
Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate
Diisopropyl Adipate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/ Dicaprate, Alkyl Benzoate
Mackaderm LIA4 Eusolex® Eusolex®
90203 HMS3
B
DUB KARITÈ2 demin. Water LaraCare® Blanova® Geogard®
Isoamyl Laurate
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Homosalate
Butyrospermum Parkii Aqua
A2001
Active Hyaluronate5 Ultra1
AmazeTM XT6 RonaCare® DUB DIOL2 Eusolex®
demin. water Elfamoist® RonaCare®
Dry-Flo® PC6
Silica Beads SB 700/HA8 Fragrance9 OmcCaps10
Procedure:
Heat phases A and B up to 70°C. Add phase A to phase B and homogenise. At 35°C homogenise again. Add phase C to phase AB. Add ingredients of phase D one after another to phase ABC. Add phase E to phase ABCD and mix moderately.
Suppliers: 1 Lonza 2 Stearinerie Dubois 3 Merck 4 Solvay 5 Azelis 6 Akzo Nobel 7 FMC 8 Miyoshi 9 IFF 10 Tagra
April 2018 Ectoin3 T-AVO3
AC Humectant6 Cyclopeptide-53
Galactoarabinan Sodium Hyaluronate
Gluconolactone, Sodium Benzoate Dehydroxanthan Gum Ectoin
Methyl Propandiol
Titanium Dioxide, Silica Aqua
Acetamidothoxyethanol
Aqua, Alcohol, Lecithin, Ectoin, Cyclotetrapeptide-24,
Aminocyclohexane Carboxylate Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate Silica, Hyaluronic Acid, Parfum
Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Cellulose Acetate
%
6.00 0.50 0.20
1.00 7.00
2.00 0.20 2.00 1.00
60.20 0.20 0.10 0.60 0.20 0.50 4.00 1.00 5.00 1.00 2.00
1.00 2.00 0.30 2.00
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