SKIN PROTECTION 175 120.00 100.00 90%** 80.00 60 -52%*** 60.00 42%** 40.00 -75%*** 20 20.00 0.00 Untreated control


Bilberry extract at 0.05%


Bilberry extract at 0.1%


Bilberry extract at 0.5%


Figure 2: Expression of the protective activity of the cutaneous barrier.


a stress induced by TNF-α, mimicking those aggressions. The loricrin rate has been measured by an Elisa test, in absence and in presence of oregano extract, after exposure to this stress. This study allows measuring the protection effect of an oregano extract, on cutaneous hydration. Quantitation by Elisa test shows that


oregano extract induces a dose-dependent increase in loricrin’s quantity. Loricrin’s rate increases by +49%** in presence of 0.04% of oregano extract, compared to the untreated control, exposed to the same stress (Fig 1). Inducing loricrin’s increase, oregano extract protects the cutaneous envelope damaged under an inflammatory stress. It maintains impermeability, and thus skin hydration status.


Bilberry extract


The skin constitutes an interface between the body and the external environment. It provides protection by forming a real barrier. Indeed, the cutaneous tissue is, on a daily basis, submitted to multiple aggressions: physical (mechanical factors, thermal, UV, blue light...), chemical (surfactants, solvents, allergens...) or biological (infectious agents). This cutaneous barrier is largely ensured by the most superficial layer of the skin: the epidermis. This last one is composed by stacking of corneocytes, which are more or less differentiated keratinocytes, which has followed a specific process of planned death cell: cornification. Indeed, during the last steps of the epidermis differentiation, keratinocytes go through important structural and metabolic changes, while migrating to the skin surface. It is during this process that keratinocytes’ plasma membrane is replaced by a proteinaceous shell, stiff and insoluble: cornea envelope. Bilberry extract’s (trade name:


April 2018 Screen’Protek® 0


Untreated Control Quince extract at 0.05%


Figure 3: MMP-1 expression. ) action on the barrier


function was evaluated in an in vitro study. The principle of the test is based on the evaluation of the transepithelial permeability, via the measurement of the penetration of a dextran molecule coupled to a fluorochrome, through a monolayer of epidermal keratinocytes, exposed to inflammatory stress IL-17. The purpose of this study is to measure the protective effect of bilberry extract facing this stress, on barrier function. Fluorescence quantification shows that bilberry extract induces a dose-dependent increase in cutaneous barrier protection. The barrier function is fully repaired (+104%**) in the presence of 0.5% of bilberry extract, compared to the untreated control, exposed to the same stress (Fig 2). Bilberry extract allows restoring cutaneous barrier, impaired under the inflammatory stress action and acts as a shield against external aggressions.


Quince extract The dermis is one of the three constituent layers of the skin, between the epidermis and the hypodermis. It is a connective tissue that is mainly composed by an extracellular matrix produced by fibroblasts, the main dermal cell population. The extracellular matrix is the group of extracellular macromolecules of the connective tissue. It is mostly constituted by glycoproteins and proteins, as well as glycosaminoglycans. Among protein composing extracellular matrix, one can mostly find collagen and elastin. MMP-1 is a matrix metalloprotease


whose role is to remodel the extracellular matrix, by degrading collagen of type I and III. It is known from the literature that its activity increases with age and with UV irradiations, which explains some of the skin


ageing phenomena.


The action of quince extract (trade name: Chrono’Protek®


) on dermal collagens


was evaluated in an in vitro study, via its effect with the presence of MMP-1. The study was performed on human fibroblasts. The level of MMP-1 has been measured by Elisa test, in absence and in presence of quince extract, after a UVA stress exposure. This test measures the protective effect of the quince extract, facing UVA on dermis.


Quantification by Elisa test shows that quince extract induces a dose-dependent decrease in MMP-1’s quantity produced by fibroblasts. This decrease reaches -75%*** in the presence of 0.5% quince extract, compared to the untreated control exposed to the same stress (Fig 3). Quince extract allows protecting the collagen pool of the extracellular matrix. Skin is strengthened and plumped.


Conclusion By using these three actives, which have been targets of omics sciences first, Berkem set up a synergy effect helping the skin to be protected from its environment and from surrounding aggressions behind a shield: a cutaneous barrier.


On one side, the cutaneous envelop is


reinforced, leading to a maintained impermeability and thus cutaneous hydration. Moreover, barrier function is reestablished and acts like a shield against external aggressions, avoiding toxic molecules (pollutants, toxins…) to pass through. Finally, the dermis, skin is protected from the time passing action via the conservation of the extracellular matrix. Skin is hydrated, firmer and plumped.


PC


Reference 1 Reproduction et environnement – Inserm.


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


Quince extract at 0.1%


Quince extract at 0.5%


40 **p<0.001 (student de test) 104%** 80 100 -13% ***p<0.001 (test de Student)


Average protection rate of the barrier function after treatment by IL-17 (%)


MMP-1 rate after a UVA irradiation exposure (%)


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