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148 SKIN CARE


Figure 6: Acquisition of the 3D print of the under-eye area of the volunteer 02 at D0 and D28.


Wrinkles and 3D prints To demonstrate the active ingredient’s efficacy on the skin, Gattefossé has partnered with Newtone Technologies to implement an innovative 3D processing method in order to achieve realistic 3D printing. Innovative 3D models were created based on fringe projection in vivo acquisitions for the under-eye and the crow’s feet areas of the half-face treated with cream containing 2% of the horse chestnut flower extract of the volunteer 02. The individual data of this volunteer, the quality of the acquisitions in fringe projection, the morphology of this volunteer and the visibility of the anti- wrinkle effects on the 2 studied areas are all the elements that led us to select this volunteer for the creation of 3D prints. The first step of this complex protocol consists in the in vivo digitisation of the crow’s feet and under-eye area surface at different time points, with a fringe projection (Dermatop 50, Breuckman- Eotech) acquisition system. Then, 3D surfaces are extracted based on 3D coordinates of each digitalised point and flatten to get rid of the global curves relative to the morphology of the subject. An extrusion process based on a specific 3D data processing algorithm, developed by Newtone Technologies, allows generating volumes from 3D surfaces for the considered time points. Those 2 volumes are then aligned with a computer based 3D editing tool and 3D labels are added with the name of the volunteer and the 2 time points. Final 3D model files with a magnification factor of about 3.6 compared to the real skin surface are then generated for printing based on deposit thin layers of polyamide powder which are heated successively by a laser. The thickness of each layer is approximately 100 µm. At the end of the printing process, powder in excess which cannot be removed by hand is removed with pressurised air. A thin liquid primer is applied to the entire


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


surface to be painted to ensure the homogeneity of the colour throughout the surface. The printed volume is then painted with a specific paint formulation made from the counter-typing of a defined skin tone to obtain a final result close to real skin in terms of colour and texture. The in vivo efficacy of the horse chestnut flower extract can be clearly visualised with a realistic 3D rendering like the one above.


Conclusion Demonstrated in vitro on skin cells, Gatuline Link n Lift directly acts at the dermal-epidermal junction and dermis levels. It promotes fibroblasts dynamism and mobility and therefore helps the skin fight matrix degradation. It also reinforces the dermal-epidermal junction integrity and functionality by stimulating the synthesis of the major components involved in the epidermis- dermis cohesion and communication. Gatuline Link n Lift visibly acts on all eye contour wrinkles: crow’s feet, under-eye and tear trough. The clinical study (scoring and instrumental evaluations) confirms this eye contour rejuvenation, with the first effects visible in just 2 weeks. The wrinkles are visibly reduced; the skin is toned up and smoother. The face regains a rested expression of authentic positive emotions. Besides, 3D prints are a new way of illustrating the results of a cosmetic active that makes it easier to understand what can be expected upon use.


PC


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Tear Trough Deformity: A Review of Anatomy, Treatment Techniques, and their Outcomes, J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2012; 5(4):229-38.


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6 Choi YH, van Spronsen J, Dai Y, et al. Are natural deep eutectic solvents the missing link in understanding cellular metabolism and physiology? Plant Physiology, 2011


7 Dai Y, van Spronsen J, Witkamp GJ, Verpoorte R, Choi YH. Natural deep eutectic solvents as new potential media for green technology, Analytica Chimica 2013; 5;766:61-8


8 Wilkinson JA, Brown AM. Horse Chestnut - Aesculus Hippocastanum: Potential Applications in Cosmetic Skin-care Products. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 1999; 21(6): 437-47.


9 Dudek-Makuch M, Matławska I. Flavonoids from the flowers of Aesculus hippocastanum. Acta. Pol. Pharm. 2011; 68(3): 403-8.


10 Cao J, Xia X, Dai X, Wang Q, Xiao J. Chemical composition and bioactivities of flavonoids-rich extract from Davallia cylindrica Ching. Environ. Toxicol. Pharmacol. 2014 ; 37(2): 571-9.


11 Yang H, Gu Q, Gao T, Wang X, Chue P, Wu Q, Jia X. Flavonols and derivatives of gallic acid from young leaves of Toona sinensis (A. Juss.) Roemer and evaluation of their anti-oxidant capacity by chemical methods. Pharmacogn. Mag. 2014 ; 10(38):185-90.


12 Kou Y, Inaba H, Kato T, Tagashira M, Honma D, Kanda T, Ohtake Y, Amano A. Inflammatory responses of gingival epithelial cells stimulated with Porphyromonas gingivalis vesicles are inhibited by hop-associated polyphenols. J Periodontol. 2008; 79(1): 174-80.


13 Lal Shyaula S, Abbas G, Siddiqui H, Sattar SA, Choudhary MI, Basha FZ. Synthesis and antiglycation activity of kaempferol-3-O-rutinoside (nicotiflorin). Med. Chem. 2012; 8(3): 415-20.


14 Kim HY, Moon BH, Lee HJ, Choi DH. Flavonol glycosides from the leaves of Eucommia ulmoides O. with glycation inhibitory activity. J. Ethnopharmacol. 2004; 93(2-3): 227-30.


15 Bazin R., Doublet E. Skin aging atlas, Vol1, European population


April 2018


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