158 HAIR CARE
Rebalancing for lighter, less oily hair
Sonia Leglise – Naolys, France
Because oily hair comes from a functional imbalance in the hair bulb, this needs to be corrected through targeted action on the production of oily substances, and also on the general protection of the hair.
Peppermint: a story Peppermint is a hybrid with a powerful aroma. This fragrant herbaceous perennial, whose geographic origins remain unclear, results from crossing water mint (Aquatica) with spearmint (Spicata). It spreads rapidly by stolons. Widely used for its scent since antiquity, it is now grown in several parts of the world for its essential oil, obtained from the leaves, which is very rich in menthol. Peppermint is used in many food products (herbal teas, confectionery, spirits) and also in pharmaceutical preparations (as a remedy for coughs and colds, in antiseptic creams, local analgesics, etc.). EtHAIReal Peppermint from Naolys is an active plant cell developed to deliver the highest amount of original active molecules. This high tech natural ingredient was created to preserve and improve the identity and the benefits of a natural product.
The new ingredient reduces excessive
production of oily substances (sebum and lipids) from the hair bulbs and scalp. In addition it decreases general cell oxidation and formation of free radicals in hair bulb and scalp cells. As a result of increasing the tolerance
threshold of the hair bulbs and the scalp there is a reduction of irritation. Overall, hair is made lighter for longer. The ingredient can be used in hair
products (shampoos, masks, serums) intended to rebalance oily hair or hair that easily becomes oily.
How it works Repairing initial imbalances
A very unfortunate condition, oily hair is heavy, flat, dull, lacks volume and looks greasy from the roots to the ends. All of these characteristics have the same origin: hyperseborrhea, or overproduction of sebum, a complex of lipid substances
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
71% decrease in scalp
D0
-71% D28
discomfort D0 Figure 1: Reduction of oiliness and scalp irritation. April 2018 - D28
62% reduction in the dull
appearance of hair
the production of sebum, and to reduce the greasy appearance of oily hair.
that are synthesised in the sebaceous glands associated with the hair. Sebum attaches itself to hair, especially around the roots, which gives them this greasy, heavy, even dirty appearance. Furthermore, men’s scalps and hair are usually oilier than women’s, because men’s scalps contain more hair follicles, and thus more sebaceous glands, producing more sebum.
While this sebum, or lipid film, protects against dryness, overproduction, which is linked to the hormonal function of the sebaceous glands, is complicated to regulate. However, it is possible to act on several key mechanisms, beyond directly on
Reduction of oily appearance D0
-59% D28
Soothing effect
59% reduction in the oily appearance of hair and scalp
D0
Targeting the mechanisms at the origin of oily hair Reducing lipid (sebum) production Focusing on the mechanisms at the origin of hyperseborrhea, EtHAIReal Peppermint (now referred to as ‘the peppermint cell extract’) operates at the heart of the sebaceous glands associated with hair by reducing the activity of the enzyme involved in the production of sebum- producing cells, 5 alpha-reductase. As the sebum or lipid film on the scalp breaks down, it is also essential to regulate this process, separating its most complex components into free fatty acids that are easier to remove.
Protects and prepares the hair for daily stress
Unbalanced and therefore more fragile, oily hair needs to be protected and soothed. Through an initial protection from
attacks from free radicals that can accentuate their intrinsic imbalance, by reducing this production in the scalp and the heart of the hair cells. Through a decrease in the synthesis of inflammation mediators in both regions, this synthesis is driven by an imbalance in the skin barrier.
Decrease of sebum -44% D28 Increasing of hair’s shininess
44% reduction in sebum
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