146 SKIN CARE 0.0 -1.6 -3.2 -9.8* -9.0 -14.8 -19.0* -18.4* -18.4 -17.3* -4.1 -8.5 -9.2 -3.3 6.5 -4.3
-26.5* -29.0* D14 D28 Crow’s feet Placebo D56 D14 D28 Under eye Gatuline® Figure 2: Clinical evaluation on crow's feet, under-eye and tear trough wrinkles.
‘the horse chestnut flower extract’) is the first active derived from flower of horse chestnut. While seed or bark extracts of Aesculus hippocastanum are well-known for being used in medicine8
and cosmetic
preparations, promoting blood micro- circulation and decreasing the visible signs of skin ageing, little is known about cosmetic effects of flowers. Unlike seed and bark respectively rich in saponins and coumarins, the flowers contain another kind of active molecule belonging to the flavonoids family.9
This flower extract is indeed particularly
rich in three flavonoids (astragalin, nicotiflorin and isoquercitrin) with strong biological properties that maintain and protect the integrity and functionality of the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) in the skin. They also have anti-oxidant10,11 inflammatory activities;12
and anti- they fight against
the degradation of the matrix (inhibition of MMPs – Matrix MetalloProteinases-12 and have anti-glycation properties13, 14
Horse chestnut flowers are selectively and manually collected in the Ardèche region of France. Only two thirds of the flowers are harvested, ensuring a responsible sourcing for this organic certified ingredient.
A deciphered mechanism of action Chronoaged skin shows an atrophy of the epidermis, a flattening of the dermal- epidermal junction and a thinning of the dermis, associated to a decreased number of fibroblasts and decreased collagen. This leads to a degradation of the extracellular matrix (ECM) components, especially collagens and elastic fibres associated with a diminished area of contact between the dermis and the epidermis, resulting in a reduced nutrient supply interfering with the skin’s normal homeostasis. All these structural changes are considered to be major factors in the formation of wrinkles. The horse chestnut flower extract stimulates fibroblasts contraction, mobility
and dynamism in order to counterbalance the age related impairment in wrinkles. As observed in vitro, fibroblast mobility is activated, boosting skin restructuration: the migratory capacity of fibroblasts is increased by 80% (p<0.001), and the contractile properties of fibroblasts are also boosted.
The horse chestnut flower extract
reinforces the DEJ integrity and functionality by stimulating and protecting the major DEJ components involved in epidermis-dermis cohesion. In vitro models allowed demonstrate that the horse chestnut flower extract maintains the communication between the epidermis and the dermis by stimulating communication actors such as integrin α6 β4, fibronectin and laminins. The horse chestnut flower extract was proven to reinforce the epidermal-dermal junction, more specifically its structural integrity (action on collagen IV) and its anchorage to the dermis (action on collagen VII).
Link n Lift 2% D56 D14 D28 Tear trough D56
31.7*
31.7*
21.1* 15.6* 10.7* 7.0 4.9^ 0.0 1.8 D14 0.8 D28
Lift aspect of the skin (eye contour)
D56 4.0 0.8 D14 D28 D56
Smooth aspect of the skin (eye contour)
Placebo Gatuline®
0.0 0.0 D14
0.0 D28
Skin tonicity (eye contour)
Link n Lift 2% Figure 3: Clinical evaluation - assessment of the texture of the skin, its visual aspect and quality. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE April 2018 0.0 D56 1.5 D14 D28 Overall skin quality D56 16.9 11.0* 5.6 7.2
20.7* 18.3* 11.1
Variation % (Dn/DD)
Variation % (Dn/DD)
statistically significant/placebo * p<0.05 ^ p<0.10 n=32
statistically significant/placebo * p<0.05 ^ p<0.10 n=32
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164 |
Page 165 |
Page 166 |
Page 167 |
Page 168 |
Page 169 |
Page 170 |
Page 171 |
Page 172 |
Page 173 |
Page 174 |
Page 175 |
Page 176 |
Page 177 |
Page 178 |
Page 179 |
Page 180 |
Page 181 |
Page 182 |
Page 183 |
Page 184
