174 SKIN PROTECTION
Skin protection improved by natural actives
Marlène De Matos, Hélène Foliguet – Berkem, France
The skin is the biggest organ of the body; it corresponds to 16% of its total weight. Composed by various layers, its primary role is to create an interface between the organism and the external environment. Skin helps to protect the body, creating a barrier more or less porous. Indeed, cutaneous tissue is daily exposed to multiple aggressions. Those ones could be physical such as mechanical factor, thermal variation, UV and IR radiations, chemical like allergen or solvent, or even biological. Skin is also useful to fight against dehydration limiting the diffusion of water outside of the organism.
Cutaneous ageing is a genetic fact. It is a
normal process, also called intrinsic ageing, due to a disorganisation of cellular matrix, at various levels; in the dermis, epidermis and hypodermis. Keratinocytes diminish, and their number and size decrease. Due to the alteration of their function, skin becomes dryer and thinner. In the dermis, the activity of fibroblasts drops, which leads to a decrease of collagen synthesis, thus renewal. Skin is no longer supported and sinks.
At the same time, in addition to those premeditated cutaneous ageing of cells,
60.0
some extrinsic factors can increase this process and as well cause harmful and irreversible damages. The main factor is the environment in which skin evolves; climate, pollution, tobacco, sun, but also food, stress and other matters from our everyday environment. All of those external causes act on skin, accelerating cutaneous ageing but also increasing the synthesis of free radicals and reducing the skin’s barrier function. Skin is not able to endorse its barrier role, driving dehydration, slackening and leaving skin thinner and more sensitive. To fight against those effects, it is important to have a healthy lifestyle, but also to take care of the skin using appropriate products, recreating or reinforcing its protection, against intrinsic and extrinsic factors. To facilitate a global protection of the skin, Berkem utilised its knowledge in plant extraction as well as omics sciences to screen and develop extracts. Omics consist of analysing living complexity, to showcase new bio mechanisms and information, on tissue and cell response.1
Following the accomplishment of a
protein and a genomic screening, the actions of three botanical extracts (called
*p<0.01 (student t test) +49%** Global’Protek® ) on skin’s global protection
have been established. A genomic has highlighted the properties of two extracts. The addition of quince extract on keratinocytes allows an under-expression of MMP-1 (four times lower than the untreated control), allowing to raise stability of the collagen pool, and therefore maintain the extracellular matrix and cutaneous toning. The supplementation of oregano extract on keratinocytes enables an over-expression of loricrine, permitting to reinforce stratum corneum, and thus to waterproof and limit water exchange with the outside. Skin is protected from dehydration. The protein test has demonstrated that bilberry extract applied on fibroblasts induces an over-activation on vitamin D receptor, inducing keratinocytes differentiation through the activation of various targets, and is accordingly, reinforcing skin barrier through the growth of stratum corneum. The action of those three extracts on skin allows a triple action global protection. Skin is protected from external aggressions thanks to the reinforcement of barrier function, limiting dehydration due to the increase of waterproof activity, and dermis regains toning.
Oregano extract 40.0 +30%** 20.0 +14% 0.0 Untreated control Figure 1: Loricrin expression. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Oregano extract at 0.004%
Oregano extract at 0.02%
Oregano extract at 0.04%
At a skin level, water is an essential element which interferes in cutaneous hydration, preservation of the barrier function, thermoregulation… However, the lack of the epidermis’s vascularisation leads mostly to an unequal hydration. The survival of keratinocytes and corneocytes depends on the passive flow of the water, from dermis to the top, and its evaporation (TEWL = Transepidermal Water Loss). Aggressions of our external environment (pollution, chemical agent, cold…), to which our skin is daily exposed, impact cutaneous barrier and its constituents. The effects of oregano extract (trade name Aqua’Protek®
) on hydration, via an
effect on loricrin, have been evaluated in an in vitro study. In this test, human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) has been exposed to
April 2018
Loricrin rate after an inflammatory stress exposure to TNF-α (%)
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