46 LIFESTYLE COSMETICS
feature. People want to carry less, save time and transition from work to workout with ease. Products such as Yuni Shower Sheets offer a full body cleanse with a deodorising effect, an effective solution for rapid post workout freshness. These are designed specifically for the active beauty market, with a running pictogram on pack.
Sweat and wear resistance Workouts will inevitably induce the production of sweat, which can be problematic for makeup products. Post Spin Class ‘panda eyes’ from non- waterproof mascara, combined with foundation smears on a gym towel are far from a selfie-ready look. Brands like Sport FX have designed a base mist, with betaine, to withstand the most vigorous of workouts, doubling up as a refreshing cooling mist post workout. IT cosmetics also recognise the need for breathable but sweat proof claims. Their concealer uses a blend of film formers, creating a very hardy concealer.
UV protection
For people who exercise predominantly outdoors, it is important to ensure that the skin is adequately protected against the harmful effects of UV light. Consumer knowledge of the damage even a small amount of sun exposure can have has created a strong requirement for broad spectrum sunscreen, essential for those outside for prolonged periods. Ultrasun developed their Sports Broad Spectrum SPF in a clear gel formulation for a quick drying effect with good spreadability, for quick and easy application and low transfer. The thin, non-oily formulation allows the users body to regulate temperature effectively and avoid problems associated with thick, greasy SPF formulations, such as heat rash.
Anti-pollution In addition to UV, there is growing awareness of the harmful effects of pollution on the skin. This trend has developed in Asia, but we are continuing to see more anti-pollution claims on the shelves in Europe. Sales of anti pollution skin care rose by over 30% in 2016 (NPD UK Beauty) and shows little sign of slowing. Effects of pollution include dull complexion, inflammation, oxidation, increase in cell senescence and ultimately, DNA damage. Key claims on pack for anti-pollution damage include; Anti-oxidant, Particle blocking, Anti-inflammatory and Repair. Clinique’s Super City Block and Murad’s City Skin are often benchmarks for anti- pollution skin care. Interestingly the key claim on both is broad spectrum SPF, followed by Anti-oxidant. Clinique’s version offers Active Beauty consumers additional
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Formulation 1: Water Proof Plumping Lip Balm (DS 0103) Phase Tradename Safflower Oil1
INCI Name
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9
Schercemol SHS2 Viamerine WH601
Evening Primrose Oil1 Vanilla Flavour3 Surfac Candelilla4 Ximenia Oil1 Isolan GPS5
HyaCare Filler CL5
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil Isostearyl Hydroxystearate
Hydroxystearic/Linolenic/Oleic Polyglycerides Oenothera Biennis Oil Aroma Cera
Ximenia Americana Seed Oil Polyglyceryl-4
Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/ Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Sodium Isostearate
1 Aldivia 2 Lubrizol 3 Kerry 4 Surfachem 5 Evonik
sweat proof benefits thanks to clever blend of silica and polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate.
Health and wellbeing Two key biomarkers of someone healthy and ‘well’ are; glowing skin, and shiny hair (Mintel 2017). In skin care, this ‘glow’ can be temporarily achieved through use of radiance pigments and blurring. For more long term, using active ingredients to biologically increase cell energy, moisture and oxygen levels to rejuvenate and revitalise the skin. In terms of hair, the quest for shine and anti-breakage continues to be at the forefront of formulation design. The Holy Grail for now seems to be achieving the effect of silicone, with a more natural silicone alternative. The rise of clean beauty will only drive this further, with quats, acrylates and copolymers being scrutinised and replacements sought, without compromising on performance.
Consumer engagement As mentioned earlier, social media is having a huge impact in our industry. The personal care sector is being driven by the worlds of Instagram and beauty vlogging which are dominated by Millennials.
Millennials will take 25,700 selfies in their lifetimes. Consumers are becoming more and more educated, anything they do not know is accessible at the touch of a Siri button. Consumers are searching for brands that speak their language, that have the same values, ethics and morals that align with their own beliefs. To withstand the dynamic changes coming with the demands of Millennials and the generations after, large brands will need to operate like a niche, remain dynamic, keeping ahead of trends and creating products that stay true to core values and the demands of the end user. For larger brands, this could be a
challenge. For smaller brands, the challenge lies in ensuring they can compete.
Formulation concepts Surfachem has created a range of formulation concepts to help illustrate the types of ingredients that can bring the right features to Active Beauty products. The formulation concepts are:
Root Boosting Powder - A gym bag essential to add texture, absorb oil and give a smoothing effect to post-workout hair.
Sweat Resistant SPF - Every outdoor athlete’s essential
COSMOS After-sun - Natural aftersun designed to sooth and moisturise sun damaged skin
Plumping Lip Balm - Following the trend for sweat resistant cosmetics, this sweet vanilla lip balm instantly plumps lips while you work out.
Anti-Chafe Cream - Formulation concept specifically designed for cyclists and spin enthusiasts. The cationic cream reduces chafing while on the saddle. Formulation 1 is an overview of the Plumping Lip Balm formula. Included in the formulation are ingredients from leading suppliers such as Aldivia and Evonik. Viamerine is a natural blend of vegetable derived vegan polyglycerides and is one of Aldivia’s most popular materials. It is widely used in skin care emulsions, oil serums and lip care. Viamerine is frequently used as a naturally derived replacement for lanolin and is available in solid and liquid forms. Viamerine provides clinically proven moisturising and anti-wrinkle effects and is particularly suitable for formulations where both shine and adherence are sought. The Viamerine range is certified by Cosmos and Ecocert.
It also shows efficacy as a moisturising agent. When tested three hours after
April 2018 2.50 %
54.00 10.00 5.00 5.00 3.00
15.00 5.00 0.50
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