PRESERVATIVES 161
New preservative system for personal care products
Arpit Wankhade, Bhagyesh Sawant, Nirmal Koshti – Galaxy Surfactants, India Controversial personal care
An important component of personal care product is its preservation. Every product requires preservatives to protect the formulation from microbial contamination. Formulators use different types of preservative depending upon the need of personal care formulations. The choice of preservative depends on various factors such as antimicrobial spectrum, regulations, pH, end application etc. Although the personal care industry strives to meet the demands of consumers for safer preservatives, there has been continued use of controversial preservatives in personal care formulations. This trend is now changing as we observe the introduction of new safer preservatives in the market. Even if these preservatives are not as effective, they are still used as safer alternatives to controversial cosmetic preservatives.
Formula 1: N-capryloyl glycine. O
preservatives include mainly parabens, DMDM hydantoin and urea derivatives, isothiazolinones, IPBC, triclosan and phenoxyethanol. Parabens are implicated in disrupting endocrine system, ultimately linked to breast cancer.1,2,3,4
toxic and most of the leading personal care products manufacturers have stopped using it. Halogenated antimicrobials have their
Formaldehyde is
classified as a Category 3 CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic and reproductive toxic) and hence all formaldehyde releasers are under the cloud. This class includes the work-horse preservatives such as DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea and Quaternary 15. Another class of very effective
antimicrobials is ‘isothiazolinones’. Methyl and chloromethyl isothiazolinones have been used in personal care industry but they are reported to be neurotoxic and skin sensitisers.5,6
Chloromethyl isothiazolinone (generally abbreviated as CIT) is far more
own share of toxicity issues. For example, triclosan, once a popular antimicrobial for hand sanitisers, is being phased out due to its toxicity. It has been implicated in eco-toxicity issues (algae, dolphins). It is reported to be an endocrine disruptor (thyroid function) and is reported to impair cardiac and skeletal muscles. There seems to be special concern for children who are at higher risk of allergies and the immune systems.7,8
Triclosan’s ecotoxicity is such a
big concern that state of Minnesota in the US has completely banned its use. Iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, another halogenated antimicrobial, is a contact allergen.9
The free iodine is feared to
N H
COOH Formula 2: N-undecylenoyl glycine.
interfere with functions of goiter and thyroid gland. It is not allowed in Japan and in European Union (EU) and generally, elsewhere, it is allowed only up to 0.02% in leave-on products. Similarly, the EU permits usage of methyl dibromo glutaronitrile only up to 0.1% and that too in only rinse-off products. Another brominated molecule is bronopol, very widely used once upon a time, is banned today in countries like Canada for its application in cosmetics. It is involved in allergic reactions as well as generation of N-nitroso amines that are known to be carcinogenic. The quaternary ammonium compounds (examples are cetyl pyridinium chloride, benzethonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride) exhibit good antimicrobial activity but their utility in personal care industry is limited due to specific incompatibilities with other cosmetic ingredients, particularly with the ingredients of strong anionic nature.
H N
COOH O April 2018
A new preservative system Galguard NT is a new preservative system based on synergistic blend of organic acids that is easy to use in personal care formulations. It provides effective broad spectrum activity.
Composition Galguard NT is based on four organic acids.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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