166 SUSTAINABILITY
Softness 3
Film-forming effect
2 1 0
Greasiness Stickiness Figure 2: Sensorial evaluation: DD cream.
(INCI: Aqua, CI77891, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene, Glyceryl Stearate, Tripelargonin / Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Ceteareth-25, Cetyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Cera Alba, CI77492, Triolein, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ceramide NP, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Dioleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, CI77491, CI77499, Silica, Nylon-12, Phenyl Propyl Alcohol, O-Cymen-5-ol)
HPC that can be summarised in three main pillars: Efficacy: high-performance ingredients tested and appreciated for their technological or efficient aspect
Safety for the people: a key component of our philosophy, our ingredients are subject to stringent controls ensuring consumers’ safety
Safety for the environment: informing on the importance of choosing eco-friendly ingredients ensuring lower impact on the environment The NIP programme started more than10 years ago and it is still improving day-by-day, answering the necessity of formulating without having a negative impact on people and the environment and giving a main role to the product’s eco-sustainability.
Eco-friendly emollient agent Esters are widely employed in cosmetic formulations as emollient, solvent, binding and texturising agents. They are used in skin care, makeup, sun care and hair care. Nowadays, several categories of esters are in the eye of the storm because of their food chain origin and related impact on the environment and biodiversity. For example, it is well known that palm or coconut are among the greatest sources of food for certain populations and the procurement of these kinds of oils destroys large areas of forest and contributes to the deterioration of the planet’s health. To avoid this strongly negative impact on
the environment, ester manufacturers have two different choices for production: first, to reduce environmental impact by using vegetable oils from a controlled supply chain or, second, to produce directly by sustainable innovative sources, by resetting the environmental impact. Tripelargonin is the proactive alternative ester coming from European
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Formula with Celus-Bi Light Formula with Isodecyl Neopentanoate
Smoothness
Film-forming effect
Softness
3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0
Absorption rate Greasiness Stickiness
Formula with Celus-Bi Light Ester Formula with Caprylic/Capric Triglyce
Figure 3: Sensorial evaluation: Sun Spray oil. (INCI: Isononyl Isononanoate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Tripelargonin/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Methoxyccinamate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Parfum)
renewable crops harvested in northwest Sardinia (Italy). The farming of these crops involved more than 50 local farmers each year for 450 ha of fields, expected to increase in a large scale-up to 3.5 kha, mainly from marginal lands. The main effort will be to focus on the implementation of sustainable and low input agronomic techniques and on the implementation of innovative mechanical oil extraction methods from seeds. An industrial plant, completely converted to ‘green chemistry’ allows the creation of high-purity pelargonic acid (above 98%) for industrial and cosmetic use. This innovative procedure results in a 100% usage of non-edible fractions and consequently no food competition for a full respect of current and future environment, with low impact process from raw materials aiming to respect biodiversity. Tripelargonin is the tangible example of the cooperation for circular economy. Tripelargonin is a clear oily liquid emollient ester with an interesting skin-feel revealing its natural origin. A low impact on nature, and a safe ingredient for people, it has never been tested on animals, according to the Directive 2003/15/EC applied to cosmetic ingredients from 11/03/2009. A series of in vitro and in vivo safety tests have been performed to confirm the respect of human safety: the cytotoxicity by MTT test, the eye irritation potential by in vitro Het Cam Test and the skin irritation potential by repeated Patch Test on human volunteers, a modified method of the Shelanski & Shelanski test. The safety dossier confirms that the product is safe and dermo-compatible, being non-irritant for cosmetic applications and hypoallergenic. To evaluate the impact on the
Environment performed by the product, an experimental test according to OECD 301B (modified sturm test) is available on the
analogue trimethylolpropane tripelargonate. It demonstrates Tripelargonin’s biodegradability in soil and water without any toxic effect during its presence in the environment after disposal. Reading across (one of the most commonly used alternative approaches for data gap filling in registrations submitted under the REACH Regulation)2
from the
source substance, it is possible to attest that Tripelargonin is readily biodegradable, with a biodegradability (after 28 days) not lower than 76% by weight.
Cosmetic performance
Thanks to its light and soft touch and because of its excellent spreadability and good absorption rate, Tripelargonin can be used in cosmetic formulations instead of other emollient esters without leaving any greasy sensation on the skin. Esters with similar molecular weight available on the market are caprylic/capric triglyceride (CCT) and isopropyl palmitate.
Thanks to its high versatility and
extraordinary performances, Tripelargonin is ideal for all cosmetic applications: skin care, makeup, sun care and hair care. Targeting the cosmetic market, it
represents the sustainable choice for formulators. Due to its outstanding cosmetic properties in terms of solubilisation and dispersion of UV filters and pigments, it turns out to be particularly suitable for sun care and makeup applications. In lipsticks and mascaras, it has been proved to confer high colour intensity to the formulation, tint homogeneity, good texture, bright and glossy effect (compared to products formulated with other benchmarks already on the market). It demonstrates to be compatible in the
formulations with vegetal oils (i.e. almond oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, Ricinus communis
April 2018 Smoothness
Absorption rate
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