110 SKIN PROTECTION
100% natural protection against blue light
Mariagrazia Barbagallo – Bionap, Italy
Premature ageing is one of the main concerns of consumers who are becoming increasingly aware of the damage induced by prolonged exposure to sun radiation and air pollution on the skin and hair, but they are still little aware of premature ageing from long-term exposure to electronic devices such as TVs, smartphones, PCs or tablets. These electronic devices are sources of
high energy visible-blue light (HEV-BL), which is the portion of visible light with a wavelength ranging from 400 to 500 nm. Blue light is able to deeply penetrate the skin, reaching the subcutaneous fat layer and causing harmful effects.
Recent studies highlighted that long-term
exposure to blue light causes over- expression of reactive oxygen species (ROS), cytotoxicity, reduction of cell proliferation, DNA damage, delayed recovery of skin barrier function.1-4
It also induces dermal
matrix degradation, modifies stratum corneum lipid composition5
and modulates
skin pigmentation, in particular of dark skinned individuals.6 Moreover, according to research conducted by Zastrow et. al., about 50% of free radicals produced in human skin after sun exposure originate from visible and infrared light.7
All these biological effects
appear, at macroscopic level, as typical signs of premature ageing (e.g. hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, loss of skin elasticity, dryness).
Despite the fact that the majority of blue light comes from the sun, we live in a digital era and spend most of our time using electronic devices; therefore, it is important to reconsider the approach to anti-ageing daily routines, keeping in mind both indoor and outdoor stress factors. The major producers of electronic devices and eye glasses have already adopted protective strategies for eyes. However, the cosmetic industry has just started responding to this health trend.
Bionap (Bioactive natural products) has developed a natural active extract, 100% eco- friendly and sustainable, capable of counteracting blue light effects. Olea-HT 10 (INCI name: Olea Europaea (olive) Fruit Extract,
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Maltodextrin) is a standardised, powdered botanical extract, titrated in hydroxytyrosol and tyrosol (10-12%, HPLC analysis). Bionap uses an eco-sustainable
approach to produce botanical extracts and
following this philosophy, Olea-HT 10 has been obtained using olive waste water, a by-product of Sicilian olive oil production. Olive fruit is one of the oldest raw materials for personal care. Queen Cleopatra used olive oil to maintain the skin’s health and youth. Bionap proposes this raw material for one of the most recent cosmetic claims. As reported in several studies,
hydroxytyrosol and tyrosol, naturally- occurring in the phenolic fraction of virgin olive oil, exert a remarkable antioxidant and radical scavenging activity. Hydroxytyrosol, in particular, has shown the strongest radical-scavenging properties in vitro among all the olive oil polyphenols and is responsible for the well-known antioxidant properties of olive oil.8
Both phenolic compounds are capable
Figure 1: Not only the eyes, but also skin needs to be protected from blue light radiation.
of preventing UV-induced DNA and protein damage and, improving the intracellular
April 2018 Abstract
Skin ageing is a multifactorial process that involves outdoor and indoor environmental factors. Outdoor stress factors, such as UV radiation and air pollution, have been already recognised for their role in accelerating skin ageing. The role of indoor factors has not been well highlighted yet. High energy visible (HEV) blue light is both an indoor and outdoor environmental
factor, whose long-term exposure contributes to accelerate premature ageing. Blue light is a portion of visible light (400 nm-500 nm) that causes a strong production of radical oxygen species (ROS) and other free radicals, which, in turn, affect cell viability and cellular components such as DNA, lipids and proteins. Blue light radiation comes from the sun, but mainly from electronic devices (e.g. TVs, smartphones, PCs and tablets) we are constantly exposed to. Bionap proposes an olive fruit extract to counteract the signs related to blue light
exposure. Olive fruit extract is a natural and eco-friendly ingredient that originates from a by-product of Sicilian olive oil production. The capability of olive fruit extract to reduce the effects of blue light was tested on human epidermal keratinocytes and fibroblasts treated with light-emitting diode-generated blue light (LED-BL). We evaluated cell viability, ROS production, DNA damage and the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-12) and collagen type I. In vitro tests demonstrated that olive fruit extract was able to protect skin cells from blue light. Furthermore, the extract strongly reduces ROS production, protects DNA from oxidative damage, decreases the expression of MMP-1 and MMP-12 and promotes the synthesis of collagen type I. The extract was previously tested on UV radiation, demonstrating to be capable of contrasting the signs of UV exposure. Therefore, Bionap’s olive fruit extract is a promising natural and sustainable
ingredient to counteract and reduce premature ageing from indoor and outdoor environmental factors.
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