SKIN CARE 145
Horse chestnut flower extract redesigns eye contour
Amélie Clairet, Viviane Bardin – Gattefossé, France Solène Trevisan, Matthieu Jomier - Newtone Technologies, France
Eyes are the first feature we notice about someone.1,2
It is now commonly admitted
that they are the main seat of our emotions. Looking at the eyes alone is most often sufficient to understand simple or even complex mental states and doing so they greatly facilitate the understanding of our interlocutor.3 With time, the fragility of the skin around
the eye area, its permanent motion, and its exposure to environmental damaging elements favour the formation of wrinkles at the corner and below the eyes. These lines change how our expression is read, in particular under-eye wrinkles and the tear trough (or valley of tears) which can give the face an impression of tiredness and sadness.4
it is extremely thin5
The skin around the eyes is very specific; and its sensitivity is
exacerbated by a constant exposure to environmental aggressions (UV, pollution, air conditioning…).
Besides, the important mobility of the Abstract
With time, the fragility of the skin around the eyes and its permanent motion favour the formation of wrinkles. These lines change how our expression is read, in particular under-eye wrinkles and the tear trough or valley of tears which give the face an impression of tiredness and sadness. By reconnecting the epidermis to the dermis and enhancing the communication pathway, Gatuline®
Link n Lift restores the features of a
young skin and visibly reduces crow’s feet, under-eye and tear trough wrinkles. The face regains a rested expression of authentic positive emotions.
tissues and muscles due to eye blinking and facial expressions, coupled with an insufficiency in structural components (collagen, elastin, epidermal lipids), tend to favour its distension and the formation of wrinkles.
Beyond crow’s feet wrinkles, there are wrinkles below the eyes that are mainly responsible for an unhealthy and tired appearance: under-eye wrinkles (the fine lines appearing just below the lower eyelid, striating the underneath eye area and finishing on the malar zone) and tear
through (fold beginning at the inner corner of the eye, following the dark circle and falling on the upper cheek). The tear trough emphasises a fatigued appearance, by worsening the visibility of the dark circle. Gatuline Link n Lift specifically targets eye wrinkles and offers a solution to restore the emotional language of the eyes. The ingredient was awarded Silver for the Best Active Ingredient at in-cosmetics Global on April 5, 2017.
Keratinocyte hemidesmosome cytoplasmic membrane integrin 6 integrin 4 collagen IV Laminins collagen VII fibronectin fibroblast Laminins
Integrins mediate the cell- matrix and cell-cell adhesion and transmit mechanical and chemical signals, thus maintaining the DEJ integrity.
Up to +112% synthesis of integrins 4.
Up to +103% synthesis of integrins a6.
Up to +69% synthesis of laminin-5.
Up to +97% synthesis of type VII collagen.
Laminins contribute to the supramolecular organisation of DEJ by self-assembly into large networks. They are also signalling molecules
Collagen VII forms a flexible anchoring fibril network, ensuring the adherence of the DEJ to the dermis.
A true communication bridge, fibronectin is a master organiser participating in skin homeostatsis and maintenance of
biomechanical properties.
Up to +19% synthesis of fibronectin.
Up to +189% synthesis of type IV collagen.
Collagen IV network is used as a framework by other DEJ components providing flexibility, structural integrity and mechanical robustness to the DEJ.
An innovative NaDES extract Gatuline Link n Lift [INCI:Fructose (and) Glycerin (and) Water (and) Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Extract)] is obtained by extraction of active molecules from handpicked Horse Chestnut flower (Aesculus hippocastanum) using an innovative Natural Deep Eutectic Solvent composed of fructose, glycerin and water. The Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents (NaDES) are new bio-based solvents directly inspired by the way in which secondary metabolites are solubilised in plant cells, through eutectic combinations of simple chemicals such as sugars, polyols, glycols, amino-acids and organic acids . These green solvents offer a perfect solution to reproduce what naturally occurs in plants through biomimicry.6,7
Thus,
Figure 1: By reconnecting the epidermis to the dermis and enhancing the communication pathway, Gatuline Link n Lift restores the features of a young skin.
April 2018
NaDES allow the creation of active compositions unattainable with conventional solvents. Natural, non-toxic and efficient at low temperatures, they are a perfect solution to provide the cosmetic industry with high-performance sustainable ingredients.
Gatuline Link n Lift (now referred to as PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
extra cellular matrix
lamina densa lamina lucida basal lamina
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