170 SKIN CARE
with the water molecules of its surroundings and forms the so called ‘ectoine hydro complex’ (Fig 1). These complexes again surround cells, enzymes, proteins and other biomolecules by creating stabilising and protecting hydration shells and layers in the epidermis (Fig 2). The presence of ectoine protection layers in the epidermis leads to a decrease and prevention of negative cell response to stress factors like intracellular inflammation, e.g. the initiation of proinflammatory signalling cascades.4
Ectoine reduces the
damaging impact on cells by stabilising and protecting the cell membrane. This protection mechanism is able to shield the skin from various stress factors including, dryness, air pollution, UV-radiation and visible light and thus counteracts premature ageing.
Besides protecting cells and other biological structures, ectoine has a positive impact on the general condition of the cell. Cells show improved cell functions, like faster supply of protection proteins and self- defence reactions, when treated with ectoine.5
Skin barrier repair Ectoine restores and stabilises the stratum corneum barrier function and consequently increases skin hydration based on its scientifically proven protection and anti-inflammatory benefits. To demonstrate the positive impact of ectoine on the human skin barrier function, the influence of ectoine on the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was investigated. Five independent placebo controlled studies with different ectoine concentrations (1% – 5%) and in total over 80 patients were conducted. For all concentrations and test persons, including patients with very sensitive and atopic skin, the TEWL was significantly reduced compared to placebo due to treatment with ectoine. In a placebo controlled clinical study with 20 test persons with broken skin barrier, a formulation containing 1% ectoine was outperforming a cream with 0.25% hydrocortisone (‘Ebenol®
0.25%’ cream) regarding the reduction of TEWL and skin Control 1% Ectoin®
30 25 20 15 10 5 0
-5 Day 2 Day 3 Figure 3: Average values of TEWL improvement.
barrier repair. After 7 days of twice daily application, ectoine reduced the TEWL by 24%, repairing the stratum corneum barrier function (Fig 3).
The clinical study by Marini et al. with 65 patients with mild to moderate atopic dermatitis confirmed the efficacy of ectoine, with regard to the repair of barrier function, inflammation reduction and the consequent improvement of atopic skin conditions.6
Anti-pollution efficacy of ectoine In the past years, several epidemiological and mechanistic studies proved a connection between pollutants and accelerating wrinkles as well as pigment spot formation. Air pollutants may not only induce skin ageing but are also linked to causing or worsening acne, atopic dermatitis, eczema, allergic reactions or even skin cancer.7,8
Depending on the size
and depth of penetration of pollution particles, the effects on the skin are different.
Especially for airborne particulate matter (PM) and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) negative influence on skin integrity has been shown. Mass and composition in urban environments tend to be divided into two principal groups: coarse particles and fine particles. The limit between them is fixed at PM2.5
usually in the fine mode (particles between PM0.1
and PM2.5
. Whereas most of the mass is ), the largest number of
particles (more than 90%) is found in the very small sizes, less than 100 nm resp. PM0.1
. 9 Day 5 Day 7 Cream with 0.25% hydrocortisone
These ultrafine/nanosized particles
are considered the most harmful components of ambient PM, because they can penetrate the skin and even pass into our circulatory system. Furthermore ultrafine/nanosized particles are carrier for organic compounds. Actually, the highest level of concentration of toxic organic compounds, such as PAHs and heavy metals, is related to ultrafine particles (PM0.1
and smaller). PAHs are
among the most widespread organic pollutants and are frequently bound to the surface of combustion-derived PM including cigarette smoke. PAHs are highly lipophilic and thus easily penetrate the skin. These scientific facts clearly emphasise the need for a global approach in anti- pollution strategies. Formulation concepts, which only focus on the skin surface and do not consider the cellular level fall short to the mark. Strengthening and restoration of skin barrier seem to be an effective function in the prevention of pollution induced skin damage and is therefore also important not to neglect.
In several studies, ectoine demonstrated global and multilevel anti-pollution efficacy. The natural stress-protection molecule strengthens the skin barrier function and is capable to inhibit and reduce damage to skin and skin cells induced by various air
Figure 4: In vivo study design: smoke application on skin with standardised chamber system. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE April 2018
Improvement of TEWL (%)
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