SKIN CARE 153
Innovative approach to control acne-prone skin
ML Vázquez-González, M. Cócerra, J Nestor, G Rodríguez, R. Saldaña, L. Barbosa-Barros – Bicosome, Spain O López - IQAC-CSIC, Spain
The production of sebum has several functions that include thermoregulation, balancing skin pH, protection against microorganisms and regulation of transepidermal water loss.1
Abstract However, when
an excessive amount of sebum is produced, it can give rise to oily skin, shiny appearance, enlarged pores and favour the development of acne lesions. Altered sebum production together with the accumulation of keratinised cells obstruct the pilosebaceous units, creating an ideal environment for the proliferation of anaerobic Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes). Acne treatment depends on the severity, but usually involves the use of salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, retinoids and topical antibiotics. These substances work by unclogging pores, regulating epidermal cell proliferation and controlling surface bacteria. Although they can be effective treatments, their application frequently involves wash out and multi-step products that damage the skin and cause dryness, irritation and redness.2
In addition,
antibiotics can induce resistance. These side effects limit the length of treatments and are the main reason for discontinuation. There is a clear need for technologies
that are able to effectively deliver active compounds to treat oily and acne-prone skin, without causing damage and with user-friendly products, therefore promoting better compliance.
Bicosome is an intelligent skin delivery technology able to provide effective penetration and target delivery of compounds to the skin.3
Bicosomes are
formed by two different lipid assemblies that doubly encapsulate the active compounds and transport them into specific skin layers, retaining higher amounts and improving their effectiveness, without affecting the structure of the skin.4 Figure 1 shows a Bicosome structure visualised by Cryo-TEM.
The use of bicosomes to deliver sebostatic and antimicrobial compounds can be a useful strategy to accomplish effectiveness and tolerability, providing an
April 2018 Discs
Excessive sebum production can give rise to oily skin, shiny appearance, enlarged pores and favour the development of acne lesions. The care of acne-prone skin involves the use of harsh molecules, wash out and multi-step products that irritate the skin and limit user compliance. This study describes the development of a bicosome system that targets the epidermis and follicles to effectively deliver a sebostatic active compound and potentiate its effects on sebum production and acne lesion prevention. This is an alternative approach to that offered by current products, which can be included in the daily care of acne-prone skin.
alternative to current therapies. Niacinamide (a form of vitamin B3) is an active compound known for its sebostatic, anti-ageing, antimicrobial and anti- inflammatory effects. Topically, it is used in a concentration range from 2%-4%.5-7
At this
range, it has been reported that the molecule reduces sebum production by around 15 µg/cm2
in 30 days.8
In this study, we developed a bicosome system incorporating niacinamide (known as bicomide). This system was designed to penetrate the skin and target epidermis layers, mainly in the follicles, which would boost the effectiveness of niacinamide. In order to evaluate these effects, a penetration study with ex vivo skin biopsies was carried out to evidence the targeting capacity of the system. After this, an in vivo efficacy study was carried out on 20 volunteers with oily and acne-prone skin.
Vesicle
For this study, the bicomide system was formulated at 3% in a carbomer gel, with a final niacinamide concentration of 0.3%.
Methodology
Skin penetration studies The skin penetration studies were performed by fluorescence microscopy. With this technique it is possible to evaluate the integrity of the macrostructure of the skin and reveal the penetration of a test treatment labelled with a fluorescent agent. Two full skin pieces were treated
overnight with: (A) an aqueous dispersion of bicosomes incorporating 10% niacinamide (bicomide) tagged with sodium fluorescein and (B) a control solution containing 10% niacinamide (control) tagged with sodium fluorescein. After the appropriate treatment, samples were observed by optical microscopy, using fluorescence filters to reveal the penetration of sodium fluorescein in the skin after the treatment.
In vivo studies Twenty volunteers, male and female, from 14 to 30 years old, with oily and acne-prone skin, photo-type I to VI (Fitzpatrick) used the test product (a gel formulation containing 3% of bicomide with a final concentration of 0.3% of niacinamide) twice a day for 30 days. The capacity of the bicomide system to
Figure 1: Cryo-TEM (Transmission Electron Microscopy) image of a Bicosome showing internal disc structures and the surrounding vesicle. Bar = 200nm.
regulate sebum production and reduce bacteria on the skin surface were evaluated instrumentally; the improvement of acne lesions and the tolerability of the tested product were evaluated clinically by a dermatologist and an ophthalmologist.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164 |
Page 165 |
Page 166 |
Page 167 |
Page 168 |
Page 169 |
Page 170 |
Page 171 |
Page 172 |
Page 173 |
Page 174 |
Page 175 |
Page 176 |
Page 177 |
Page 178 |
Page 179 |
Page 180 |
Page 181 |
Page 182 |
Page 183 |
Page 184
